GuateParanoia
ByTrudy blogs at Innkeeper’s Tail and occasionally comments here. In a recent post she wrote:
I have recently read some blog postings by other US expats, and am mystified… as are some of my US and European expat peers who also read them … by the levels of paranoia that some of these wound-up expats seem to exhibit. There is a definite tone of “Guatemalans hate us! They are out to get us!” which is amusing and difficult to understand. My experience and that of many other expats whom I know has been so different.
I am not saying their experiences don’t merit fear–they may have some valid reasons–but it also seems that fear often predisposes people to certain behaviors which may only serve to exacerbate, rather than alleviate, their fear. Really, it’s not as if we don’t encounter crime and pathology in the US.
I think it’s fair to say she’s referring to GuateLiving, since she recently commented here expressing a similar sentiment, and since I know of no other Guate blogger who says publicly anything like what I’m writing (if I’m missing a blog, please let me know!).
When you’re an apologist for a person or a subject, it makes sense that you might remain blissfully unaware of the ‘flip side’ of the subject. This is my complaint about most of what is written about Guatemala; those writing about it have a financial incentive to paint a picture of paradise. (Even the starving children are presented romantically, i.e., a way for liberals and evangelical missionaries to come here for a week, feed a few kids, and return home proud of the sacrifice they’ve made and the good deed they’ve done). Conversely, no one has an incentive to write the truth about life here. In fact, there is a disincentive, as readers of this blog know.
First, you will be ostracized by certain members of the expat community, and to a lesser extent, locals who are connected to tourism or the expat community. You won’t get invited to the right parties, you’ll be looked down on by those who are proper and follow ‘the rules’, and you’ll generally be mocked. (Not to mention having other Guate bloggers refuse to link to you in their blogroll! Horrors!)
I even had one person write me and say he would never email me again after reading something I wrote! All pretty mild, if you ask me, but important to people who just want to ‘go along and get along’.
Secondly, you will get threats. As long-time readers here know, I’ve gotten a lot of death threats, promises of violence against my wife and children, and of course threats against this blog. Just recently someone who had read something they didn’t like was asking acquaintances of mine around Antigua where I lived. (Maybe they were going to send flower?)
Some of the more entertaining threats are enshrined in the ‘Random Quotes’ column to the right.
And let’s not forget the time Guatemalan hackers managed to take GuateLiving offline one time, and replace it with pictures of some very flexible and hardworking girls (I was disappointed that they appeared to be Asian, rather than Latino, but the angle was such that I couldn’t be certain of their facial features).
Of course, most of the threats are meaningless, but you never know, as readers here have implied recently, locals don’t take kindly to expats saying critical things. When I first started writing I never assumed anyone would ever read this thing, and that anonymity gave me some liberty to be free with my thoughts that perhaps I no longer have by virtue of having a much higher online profile.
The hack proved that someone was willing to take some time to shut GuateLiving down, and I’ve gotten enough feedback from acquaintances to know that there are some local writers are are really upset about what I say and worse, the popularity of the blog. (I guess it’s always worse to discover that something you really don’t like is more popular than your own publication).
Judging from Trudy’s blogroll, we have vastly different worldviews, so it shouldn’t come as any surprise that we would observe the same events and reach different conclusions. I’m okay with that difference of opinion, and I’ve maintained a link to her blog and many others, even when I find the majority of their comments to be at odds with my own opinions. I trust that readers are grown-ups and can decide for themselves whether the content has value. You can never have too much information in a foreign country and I know from personal experience how difficult it is to get real, ‘on the ground’ information about Guate. I for one enjoy diversity of opinion, especially when it’s extreme and I can have a good time testing the logic.
A few years ago, before I began my trek to Mexico and later Guatemala, I saw the economy in the US beginning to show signs of collapse, I sold my house, moved out of stocks and into gold and commodities and generally took a pessimistic view of the value of the dollar. Eventually I decided to take a leave of absence from my job, feeling that the economic conditions would limit my opportunities for awhile. Some of my colleagues called me ‘paranoid’ and laughed at me for buying gold when everyone knew that historically gold was a loser and real estate and stocks are where all the money is made.
Since that time, the houses in my old neighborhood in Mesa have lost 40% of their value, gold has increased in value by 60%, and the dollar has lost about 20% of it’s value. Former partners of mine who had made seven figures for years were looking for jobs. Moving to Mexico and then Guatemala has turned out to be a fabulous experience for us, and more rewarding than I ever thought. What I originally envisioned might be a one or two year sabbatical of sorts has become a long-term residence, at least until I’m deported for violating the unfair competition act. (If you are interested in financial commentary, here’s an article about some potential further risks to the economy.)
Of course, being right about that doesn’t mean I’m not paranoid about other things, but it does prove that staying in the mainstream isn’t always a guarantee of future success. I guess I would also point out there are a plethora of sites and publications touting Guatemala, and very few say anything about real life here (Keep in mind that while the PCV blogs are numerous, they operate under strict censorship, so what you read there is effectively the embassy speaking, and few expats living here care enough about all this stuff to blog).
And before someone offers up the all-too-familiar red herring, no, I don’t believe that every single Guatemalan suffers from GuateGrudge, although some do, just like I don’t believe every single Brit is a pom, although some are.)
I could say a lot more on this topic but I hear there is a sale on tin foil at the bodegona and I need to stock up; some of the foil is coming off the windows and the kids’ hats are starting to unravel…
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15 Comments
October 15th, 2009 at 4:35 pm
I'm sorry, but I have to disagree. I don't think she was zeroing in on you at all, if that was what you meant.
I have met people here who think Mexicans are out to screw them, and these people don't blog. These are typically the ones who are unable to adapt and who tried to move down to a little America. Their sole reason for coming south was the lower cost of living. Huge mistake, because if they continue to live like they did up north, it's not cheaper. They are constantly frightened unless they are in a crowd of like-thinking expats in an expat bar. Really very sad. They are also quite vocal about having lived here for a time and not liking to go down to Centro because there are too many Mexicans. Go figure.
I read your blog blog because I have an interest in Latin America. Your and others' verbal pictures of Guatemala are fun to compare to my own experiences in Mexico. Sometimes the same, sometimes not. However, the issue of time seems to be universal. Politically we are poles apart, but you keep writing and I'll keep reading.
Thanks for the effort.
Larry
October 15th, 2009 at 6:07 pm
What's not to like? Seems to me that you merely report what you experience on a day to day basis. The fact that you empathise that which is not normal to your previous experiences in the U.S. does not mean that you are belittling the locals. Anyone who thinks so merely has a thin skin.
Those who do not like your political leanings need only be a conservitive here in the U.S. where the liberal point of view is all that is available from the government controlled media. At least one has an opton of NOT clicking on GuateLiving if one is offended.
October 15th, 2009 at 9:08 pm
This particular post is one of the reasons I keep coming back. Most bloggers take the original thought (someone might be attacking me) and spend the entire blog on that thought. Here you took a comment that might have been directed at you (or not) and used it to pen a thoughtful and insightful article on your thoughts on living as an Expat. Interestingly enough – your final conclusion seems to mirror the conclusion from the other blog – our prejudices tend to lead us to conclusions that are not based on the facts.
I don't know about the other liberal wannabe expats who are reading your posts but there hasn't been anything to discourage my future move – just a lot of information that is being tucked away for future use.
October 15th, 2009 at 9:38 pm
Mark, I feel like I'm repeating myself here, but I just don't get why people are threatened by your blog. I probably disagree with you on 50% of the opinions you post, but I don't feel offended or threatened. I guess if the more serious threats or complaints were from Guatemalans, I might understand more, since, well, its their country and there might be genuine misunderstandings between your way of thinking and theirs (not that these should lead to threats of death!). But if the complaints come from other expats, I'd find that a bit ridiculous. For me the experience of living in Guatemala tends more to bring opposing views together and provides opportunities to share similar struggles and advice among folks who might not normally get along in their home country.
It is a sensitive issue–making comments about another country. Folks in the US are often quickly offended by comments from foreigners about US lifestyle, etc. But death threats? Ugh. I will say there are *some* Guatemalans who welcome any opportunity to make a devil out of a gringo in order gain something for themselves. But the majority of Guatemalans are not that way, and much less concerning some dude's opinion on his blog. These (right/left/doesn't matter) extremists must be expats or be influenced by the expat community.
October 15th, 2009 at 10:07 pm
I don't always agree with what you post and I think you can be quite abrasive, though it's obviously on purpose, but I still enjoy reading your blog. My concern though is that if people are starting to act on their threats, your kids and wife could be in danger. It's one thing to risk yourself, but you have children who can't protect themselves if someone decides to go after them to get to you. And that is precisely why many people would never dare write things that would get them that kind of attention. Maybe it's silly, but I'm more interested in the safety of my family than getting the truth out there.
October 15th, 2009 at 11:32 pm
Just because your paranoid does not mean they are not out to get you.
October 16th, 2009 at 12:54 am
Mark,
You are correct about most ex-pats who live here do not take the time to blog about Guatemala. The main reason, I feel, is that many of us are much more independent than the average citizen and want to simply be left alone to enjoy our lives. We do not want to control other peoples lives, as do many of the bloging politically correct crowd ( for example, people should not be allowed to smoke on the beach ).
Personally, the only reason that I follow your blog, and try to contribute to it at times, is that you and your readers share local information. None of us need to agree with each other on politics or religion or philosophy. We just need to help each other learn more about this wonderful country where we live.
Being an ex-pat, in Guatemala, reminds me a great deal of being a cruiser on one's own boat. Once you leave the protective arms of the U.S. Coast Guard, a cruiser must rely on himself/herself and other cruisers, literally for survival. A cruiser quickly learns that you share your knowledge with all other cruisers, no matter what that person's background or beliefs or personality. Any cruiser, who does not share, quickly drops out of the cruising life from lack of help and knowledge. This is very similar to the people who come down here with the idea that their knowledge is sufficient. They usually last about a year.
Keep up the good work, Mark!
October 16th, 2009 at 1:18 am
Mark,
You are correct that most ex-pats who live here do not take the time to blog about Guatemala. The main reason, I feel, is that many of us are much more independent than the average citizen and want to simply be left alone to enjoy our lives. We do not want to control other peoples lives, as do many of the bloging politically correct crowd ( for example, people should not be allowed to smoke on the beach ).
Personally, the only reason that I follow your blog, and try to contribute to it at times, is that you and your readers share local information. None of us need to agree with each other on politics or religion or philosophy. We just need to help each other learn more about this wonderful country where we live.
Being an ex-pat, in Guatemala, reminds me a great deal of being a cruiser on one's own boat. Once you leave the protective arms of the U.S. Coast Guard, a cruiser must rely on himself/herself and other cruisers, literally for survival. A cruiser quickly learns that you share your knowledge with all other cruisers, no matter what that person's background or beliefs or personality. Any cruiser, who does not share, quickly drops out of the cruising life from lack of help and knowledge. This is very similar to the people who come down here with the idea that their knowledge is sufficient. They usually last about a year.
Keep up the good work, Mark!
October 16th, 2009 at 3:14 am
Larry, I don't think 'all' locals are out to screw me, but some are. That would be the case in most any third-world country. Perhaps if I were a Mexican in the US I might feel the same way, and perhaps that might even be true. However, we are so British in many ways that most of the 'system' works regardless of your skin color, gender, religion or affluence. Here everything is variable, and I try to observe the good and bad.
Hopefully its obvious from my blogging that we do enjoy it here and not just because somethings are cheaper. And, I would say Guate is very different from Mexico, based on our time in DF in 2008.
Thanks for reading.
October 16th, 2009 at 3:15 am
Don't I belittle the libs more than the locals?
October 16th, 2009 at 3:18 am
Every now and then I hear from a potential expat and after some conversation I DO try to discourage them, only because I realize their experience in Guate consists of two weeks at Panza Verde and they have no idea what real life here is like. Mostly I'm just trying to inform, and to do so with a conspicuously expat gringo perspective. What could would it be if I looked at everything through someone else's eyes?
October 16th, 2009 at 3:22 am
James, I suspect if you and I ever meet we could enjoy a vigorous discussion on a wide range of issues and not leave with our feelings hurt. However, I have come to realize most people aren't capable of that. They see something they don't like and they lash out. It's no different on the right; every day I read something on the web written by some 'conservative' and I roll my eyes. I see the same thing in my kids, emotional, irrational reactions that are the result of a lack of discipline and critical thought. Regrettably a lot of people never grow beyond that state.
I'd like to think I would listen to criticism of the US and judge it on its merits and not the messenger. I'm sure some would be valid, some I would take issue with, and some I would reject. Hopefully I would be able to respond to it with reason and maturity. I do think we do a little better with this in the US, if for no other reason than we have such a long history of vigorous debate. If nothing, we've toned things down considerably from the early days of the Republic. No one can say today about the President what was said about Adams, Jefferson et al (and if you do, you might be banned from buying an NFL team).
October 16th, 2009 at 3:29 pm
Mark,
Like others I cannot understand WHY anyone would be all that offended by your views or your blog. I don't share all the same views you have, some yes, some no, but I don't agree with family members on everything either.BUt hating someone for their views is ridiculous as is hate mail. Intolerance among AMericans up in the USA seems to out of control re politics. Hearing the news on CNN, CBS and Fox one would think Civil WAr was about to break out up there! I also listen to the BBC where I feel I get more balanced reporting and more world news..of course Brits behave very different in Parliament sessions than Americans do in Congress. They can get very heated. But usually on a personal level, Brits do not do the hate mail thing or name calling (perhaps they get it out of their systems early as children).They tend to be invariably polite with people face to face in personal relations.
I wrote on Lonely Planet's THorntree for many years before your blog came along about life in GUatemala for ex-pats. I made several longterm friends this way. SOme have moved to GUatemala and some remain travelers who come and I see them each trip they make. Only one person I befriended that way was a dud, mostly because her politico/social views would not tolerate "diversity" of thought. She did not live in GUatemala very long. I know you will make many friends via this blog…don't let the others get you down…it is their loss.
You blog is a great dose of reality for people thinking about moving to GUatemala. Awhile back I wrote that most people go through a "honeymoon" phase with Guatemala as tourists and if they move here. Guatemala is such a beautiful country,,,that cannot be denied. And locals are often extremely polite and kind. After living here people eventually see that Guatemala is not perfect. It looks like a perfect paradise, but is not in many ways. People who stay, choose to stay for many reasons and mostly NOT economic.It is better that people read a wide range of experiences that ex-pats have in GUatemala and they need to ask the question, "How long has that person been living in Guatemala?" If one only reads the rose colored glasses views of GUatemala the first time one encounters a difficulty or challenge they will take it harder if they had a "paradise" expectation of Guatemala.
A little dose of reality is good…it serves as innoculation that dulls the pain of coming up against bureaucratic rules and hassles, people who do not respect their own country and throw garbage and litter out vehicle windows…on and on.
I once was on a chicken bus to the RIo Dulce from the capital and carefully wrapped my refuse from my snacks and lunch in a plastic bag to throw away in a receptacle upon arrival. THe woman sitting next to me at the window had been dropping refuse out the window for hours. I had to bite my tongue….I said nothing. My behavior must have been driving her as nuts as hers was me, because she finally reached over to my lap where the bag sat, grabbed it , threw it out the window and said ,"Basura afuera!" (garbage outside) with total disgust in her voice.And so goes life in Guatemala……
October 17th, 2009 at 4:45 pm
Your Guategrudge hypothesis is silly, to put it kindly. I do think you are correct about Guateparanoia. Guatemalan culture is not what it was a decade ago. You are living is a sick and traumatized society. People have retreated into their safe zones — be they family or friends — and are ignoring the rest of society. This retreat is a defense mechanism that has made impunity possible. Impunity empowers evil. Everything that was bad about Guatemalan culture has been magnified. I am not talking about punctuality. I am referring to the violent tendencies that have always been supressed.
October 18th, 2009 at 5:00 pm
No need to be kind here, are you taking issue with my premise or the conclusion?
Interesting analysis of the cause of the culture of impunity. A traveling expat friend of mine made a similar comment about the situation in South Africa.