Archive for Absurd
Prejudice with a Halo
Posted by: | Comments“Why are some people so afraid of immigrants? Why is xenophobia so in vogue?”
That was the question asked by a local blogger recently. I’m not sure if he is referring to the hostility he shares with a few other Antiguenos towards white Christian foreigners, or if it was a veiled reference to Arizona’s recent legislation making it a state crime to be in the US legally. Effusive reader comments would seem to suggest the latter.
I enjoy observing the art of message manipulation, and so seeing the hate that has spilled forth because the people of Arizona are tired of the federal government empowering the drug dealers, rapists and murders who happen to be in the country illegally is, frankly, entertaining. As has been pointed out here and elsewhere many times, neither Mexico nor Guatemala tolerates illegal immigration and yet my countrymen are ‘xenophobic’ for preferring the rule of law. Not to mention that it is already a federal crime to enter the country illegally, making the AZ law superfluous, especially relevant for those who oppose or are ignorant of a federal system of government and the growing legal battle by the states against the central government. It’s gratifying to see that a dozen other states appear to be following my state’s lead. The real fight is with the federal government of course, not the immigrants, but those are just details that get in the way of good propaganda.
You would think a people with a history such as those who are migrating would prefer law and order after so much civil unrest, abuse and corruption in their native countries. But you’d be wrong. Ask a local if you may enter their house without their permission and take their possessions and return to your home at a time of your own choosing and they will quickly agree this is wrong, but the idea of a nation controlling its borders and admitting who it wants when it wants is simply outrageous. Until, that is, you remind them that Guatemala does this very thing. Oh, but that’s different Don Marco, we don’t need you, but you need us. Tell that to my maids, my employees, or the Guatemalans I keep employed through my profligate spending around town. There are even Guatemalans who live on the tourist industry here but secretly resent the tourists. I’m shocked, just shocked!
In fact, of all the developed nations, the US has the greatest history of immigration-legal and otherwise. Latinos now outnumber blacks, Indians and Asians continue to come to the US (if only to learn and then go home), and at every level of society first generation immigrants are thriving. Most of them are legal and wish other immigrants would respect their new nation’s laws. Perhaps all those legal immigrants are racist xenophobes too for wanting others to work and wait and play by the rules, like they did.
One ‘friend’ here called me a racist to my face for supporting the AZ legislation. Of course, I found out immediately he was completely ignorant of the law, thinking as he did that cops could stop anyone they wanted and jail them if they didn’t have immigration papers. I tried to explain probable cause to him without success (there is no such legal protection here, a point I found deliciously ironic), due process of law, etc. I told him that I thought the AZ law didn’t go far enough, because in my opinion to enter the country to work and live you should have to pass a physical, demonstrate a certain net worth, pass a literacy test, and have the recommendation of three native-born citizens.
He was appalled and thought he had ‘caught me’ in my own argument by pointing out that I couldn’t pass a literacy test in Spanish. When I pointed out that this higher bar for entry to the US was in direct proportion to the much higher demand for entry, I think I lost him. When I offered military service as an alternative path to citizenship, he protested vigorously that military service was ‘offensive’ and that the Guatemalan people were ‘peaceful’. Tell that to the families of the 16 people a day murdered here. He became apoplectic when I suggested that even better would be to allow anyone to vote, citizen or not, so long as they owned property. Yes, even those dirty, stinky brown Spanish speakers, so long as they own land. White and homeless, try again in four years. Merit-based anything can make some people crazy.
The answer to Rudy’s question, of course, is that few people in the US are afraid of immigrants. They’re afraid of losing their job to someone willing to work for less than the minimum wage, being run over by a drunk driver, having their little girl raped and murdered, paying ever-higher income taxes to support an exploding welfare class or getting beat up for walking on the wrong side of the road or wearing the wrong basketball jersey. Having grown up in Tucson and Phoenix I’ve seen all these headlines on a near-daily basis, which perhaps to others is really just a mass delusion without basis in fact that we’ve cooked up (and convinced the leftist, pro-migrant media to support), to mask our hatred for our darker-skin neighbors. We Arizonans hate everything about Latinos; we hate their tequila, their women, their food, their music, their soccer, their Christianity. Yeah, that’s why you see whitey in their restaurants, at their concerts, marrying their women and supporting their churches; we don’t mean what we say we mean about the rule of law, it’s because we’re really just racists. Como se dice: red herring?
For my part, I never experienced racism and discrimination until I came to Guatemala. Even in Mississippi at the black-run BBQ joint they didn’t charge me more for ribs because I was white or from the ‘Yankee’ state of Arizona, and when I asked at the Jewish deli in Philly if Catholics could order off the public menu they laughed and made jokes about wishing they had their own Pope to stop all the bickering. But here in Guate I can’t get a work visa, after all, I’m a foreigner, and while I’m welcome to visit for 90 days at a time and pay higher prices for things based on my skin color, I can’t even serve as the registered agent for my own company. You have to be a Guatemalan to do that. Walk into the Secretary of State’s office in Phoenix to form your own corporation and as long as you can pay the $100 (it’s $600 here), they don’t care whether you’re legal or not, black, brown or white, carrying TB in your lungs or a nuke in your suitcase or even if you hate America. That’s just how xenophobic we are.
What’s the old saying about hypocrisy? Kicking with the hind feet while licking with the tongue? How apropos.
Conversation on the Boat
Posted by: | CommentsI was at Atitlan recently and took the boat from Pana to San Pedro. As is always the case, the pilot had to stop several times to do something with the motor (during the 20 minute ride across the lake).
Then he drove right through the huge mass of trash that can be seen from hundreds of meters away and is always in the same place (I presume wind/water currents cause the trash to all gather there). Of course, about 3/4 of the way through it the trash had collected around the propeller and there was lots of back and forth on the throttle and screwing around with the prop and motor to get going again. I bit my tongue.
On the way back, the same process was repeated. So I asked the pilot:
DM: You know where the trash is, but you drive through it anyway?
Pilot: Si.
DM: Why?
Pilot: I don’t know.
DM: Why don’t you drive around the trash?
Pilot: It’s really big.
DM: Yeah, but the gas to drive around it is, como se dice “inconsequential”
Pilot: But it would add too much time.
DM: But when you drive through the trash lake we get stuck, and often sit for five or ten minutes while you play with the motor. That is inconvenient for the passengers and over the course of a day likely causes you to miss a round-trip worth of revenue.
Pilot: Fijese…
DM: Plus over time you are likely doing harm to the engine and propeller.
Pilot: [silence]
Then I noticed all the stares on the boat. The Indians were glaring, the Latinos trying to be invisible, the Indian girl from London with two enormous backpacks was laughing and the girl from Edinburgh with Daisy Duke cutoffs had eyes the size of saucers. My friend “Paul” appeared to be asleep, despite the wind, rain and three foot waves.
The pilot turned his back to me and refused to make eye contact. While we drifted towards the rocky north shore I wondered if my iPhone would survive if I had to make an early exit. Would “Paul” survive? Probably; he’s spent some time on open water. Fortunately, the pilot eventually got the motor started again and we arrived at the Pana dock without further incident. I saw “Paul” rush off the boat, pay the first guy he ran into and move up the shore a safe distance away, just in case, you know, there was some sort of reprisal for my imprudent questioning of the pilot’s navigation competence.
Thank God for Honduras
Posted by: | CommentsBack during the 1992 Presidential election Ross Perot was scolding Bill Clinton for thinking that he was qualified for the presidency based on his term as Governor of Arkansas (something Perot compared to having run a tienda and thinking you can then run the local Super WalMart), I remember Clinton’s spin team saying how much progress Arkansas had made under Clinton’s terms. At some point a snarky commentator noted that Arkansas was no longer dead last in the nation for everything (thanks to Alabama, or Mississippi, I don’t remember which).
Well, according to El Blogador Guatemala has scored rather well in the hemispheric race to the bottom:
Antigua may have been voted the world’s top travel destination, Tikal the world’s greatest historical experience ahead of the Taj Mahal and the pyramids, the whole Central American isthmus may be a global specialist in the generation of happiness, but this week Newsweek published an interactive infographic which saw Guatemala come in a lowly 84th out of a 100 of the world’s best countries — and if you sort by ‘Latin America & Caribbean’ the Chapines end up with the wooden spoon. Yes, we are officially the shittest place to live in the whole region.
Even though Haiti was apparently not competing, how this state of affairs could have arisen is a complete mystery to me frankly. Have the people responsible for these metrics (Health, Education, Political Environment, Economic Dynamism and Quality of Life) ever been to Honduras? They even have a higher per capita murder rate over there, as well as a lower per capita GDP and 80s-style throwback political shenanigans.
PS: Cuba came in above Colombia, a statistic that is bound to please those nice folk over on NT24.
With a -100 score (because -101 isn’t an option), in both Political Environment and Economic Dynamism, how did Cuba manage to beat Colombia?
I Get It
Posted by: | CommentsA gringo friend of mine who is pretty direct recently said to me, “You realize that a lot of people in this town don’t like you”. I just laughed and told him I already knew. He seemed surprised, and asked if I thought I knew why.
I went on to explain that the far left expats (probably 50% of the total), don’t like me because I hold opinions different from theirs. My experience has been that ‘true believers’ on the Left can’t tolerate dissent, and so for them maintaining relationships with someone willing to challenge their assumptions is difficult at best. Some of the business owners in town don’t like me because I (diplomatically), explained that I wasn’t interested in buying their business at 2 or 3 times the actual value. Once I explained myself to other possible investors the market kind of soured on those businesses.
Some of the locals don’t like me because I speak the truth about life here, and most Guatemalans can’t stand criticism (or at least from a gringo). It’s okay for illegal immigrants in the US to speak their mind, protest, even riot, but it’s not okay for a gringo in Guatemala to say anything other than, “Isn’t it beautiful here…aren’t the people so charming…I never knew my own culture was so horrible”, etc., etc. One of the things you’ll read here-but not elsewhere-is that many Chapines are very thin-skinned. Of course my experiences are limited, but I think in the US and Europe we’re much more accustomed to criticism of our culture, governments, opinions, even way of life. Maybe people are more discreet here, or maybe my Spanish is so bad I’m insulting them when merely trying to convey a suggestion, such as, “You know it would really be best if you were prepared for our meeting” or “If you tell me 1pm, don’t show up at 2:30pm with a few uninvited friends and act as if you’re on time”.
After a few other examples, my friend interrupted and said, “No, I think it’s much simpler. In this town you’re supposed to be a hippie, a druggie, down on your luck, incapable of making it back home, a missionary of some sort, hiding from someone or a misfit. You appear to be self-confident, happily married with normal kids (little does he know!), and don’t appear to need anything. They can’t stand that. It drives them crazy. That’s why all the wild conspiracies, because in the absence of anything real, they have to make stuff up.”
So my offense is much simpler; I’m normal. And here I thought it was because I was just so darned exciting.
Welcome to GuateLiving.
My Cover is Officially Blown
Posted by: | CommentsOld Guy: Excuse me, aren’t you Mark?
DM: As far as you know.
Old Guy: My name is [obscured]
DM: Nice to meet you.
Old Guy: I heard what you did the other night at [obscured].
DM: Oh? What was that?
Old Guy: C’mon, everyone knows, it was even on [obscured]’s blog, but I’m just surprised that someone who is supposed to be undercover would kick the !@#$ out of an Antigueno.
DM: Undercover? And I didn’t realize anyone read [obscured]’s blog.
Old Guy: Yeah, don’t pretend…everyone in town knows and yes, the 30 most important people in town read his blog.
DM: Thirty? Wow. And everyone knows what?
Old Guy: You work for Mossad. It’s an open secret.
DM: I didn’t realize so many people knew.
Old Guy: I knew it! So you don’t deny beating that guy up? Don’t you think that gives your people a bad rap?
DM: My people?
Old Guy: You know…YOUR people.
DM: Oh, you mean Mossad? Or Jews?
Old Guy: You said it.
DM: Okay.
Old Guy: So tell me what REALLY happened.
DM: I was minding my business, enjoying the benefits of my Que Pasa VIP card and a chess game, when all of a sudden these Antiguenos who were stoned and drunk started hassling these ladies at the bar, and more importantly, breaking my concentration. So [owner of the bar] tried to throw them out, but the guys were a little more than what he could handle. I just waited for the right minute, put a full nelson on the big one and took his legs out from under him. There was a sickening thud as he kissed the floor and was immediately very compliant.
Old Guy: I guess that’s nothing for you Mossad guys.
DM: Yeah, well, he was seriously built but I had 30 pounds and surprise on my side. It kind of put a damper on the evening…blood does that.
Old Guy: Wow. Nice to meet you.
DM: Pleasure is all yours. Shalom.
Follow Up to “Conversation with a Volunteer”
Posted by: | CommentsRead this:
A Cochrane church has begun a special relationship with a community in Guatemala.
A group of teens from the Cochrane Alliance Church returned from a 10-day trip to San Raymundo, Guatemala, on July 15, after helping build homes and lives for impoverished members of a partner church.
“Compared to our other trips and experiences with the students, this was by far the best one,” said Dave Yang, pastor of student ministries at the church.
So far, so good, right?
Then this:
With the help of the church and community, about $70,000 was raised to send the youth mission, and a second group of adults, who leave Aug. 6.
Naturally I’m relieved that the kids had a good trip, and apparently they built a house for a family, but I wondered, “How many children could you feed for $70,000?”
Using the Don Marco Index of Vital Economic Indicators, we discover that a child can eat one meal here for $1. That’s tortillas, rice, beans and an egg or two. Perhaps not my favorite meal, but enough to avoid starvation. At three meals a day, 365 days a year…well, you know where this is going…
You could feed four kids three meals a day from birth to age 18 on $70,000.
You could give 191 kids one meal a day-which might be the difference between starving and not-for a whole year on $70,000.
You could buy enough biosand water filters to provide 20,000 people fresh drinking water for the next 10 years on $70,000.
Or you could send a group of evangelical kids to Guatemala for 10 days. And you could do it twice a year for the next five years and be proud of it.
Welcome to GuateLiving.
Related: Conversation With a Volunteer
Shocking But True
Posted by: | CommentsI was out looking at office space recently and had agreed to meet the real estate agent at a gas station at 11am. She arrived promptly at 11:30 sin apology, and took me to see the office. It was okay, but not great, and when I explained (again) what I was looking for she said, “Oh, I have just the place, would you like to go see it now?”
She described the location and, knowing exactly where it was, I agreed to meet her there in 10 minutes.
I arrived and was a little surprised to find the agent not there already, since I had made a point of stopping at the bank, pharmacy and dry cleaners to give the agent time to figure out where it was, try the key, call the person with the key, wait for that person to arrive and otherwise go through the GuateMotions to show a house.
I waited for 15 minutes (my max wait time for commissionistas), and called her.
DM: Que pasa?
Agent: Oh, I’m sorry, I have to take lunch to my daughter at school.
DM: Que? You told me to meet you over here in 10 minutes, that was 45 minutes ago. I really thought you would be here waiting for me.
Agent: Fijese, I promised my daughter I would take her lunch.
DM: Yeah, but you promised me you’d show me this house and I’ve been waiting.
Agent: Ha ha ha. Fijese, my daughter…
DM: Yeah, so how old is this daughter?
Agent: Oh, she’s 22.
DM: Okay, thank you.
Agent: But I can be there in about an hour, would you like to wait?
DM: No gracias. Good luck with lunch!
Mayor 1, Business 0
Posted by: | CommentsRudy has mentioned the ongoing controversy between the Mayor and business owners here in Antigua. Based on my intimate knowledge of several bar/restaurants and the legal proceedings, I think he misstates things-or else I have a flawed understanding-of the situation.
For years the municipality has issued licenses to bars and restaurants that gave them the right to serve food and liquor until a certain time. Many of those licenses authorized sales to 10pm, but some to much later, even 1am. Some of the more successful places in town have operated well past 10pm for years with these licenses. Occasionally the police will show up and hassle them, usually after a neighbor complains about the noise. That is solved predictably with a beer or coupon for later use.
In summary, the Mayor appears to have sided with the old Antiguenos who don’t like the bar scene. Reilly’s selling hundreds of Gallos at 1am with gringos and capitalinos standing around by the arch drinking and smoking is apparently not what they want for the city. Ditto for MonoLoco further south which is often packed and jamming at 2am.
And so after encouraging capital investment into the city by foreigners and Guatemalans alike to serve the demand for food and drinks, and de facto authorizing it through non-enforcement of the official rule for years, the Mayor appears to be ready to enforce it. The problem is not just for those who have 10pm licenses, but for those who have licenses for later, say, 1am. Will the police recognize these licenses or will they all fall under the new 10pm regime?
Of course, the greater problem is the effect on tourism and employment. These bars and restaurants employ hundreds, perhaps thousands of people in Antigua, mostly locals, and the gringo-owned establishments tend to be the larger ones. They are also those that the Mayor really seems to be out to get. And so if he does in fact manage to shut them down at 1opm, some of the businesses will cut back substantially on their staffing and others will close altogether. For some of these businesses the post 10pm sales on Friday and Saturday represent an enormous portion of sales, and therefore, a large percentage of profits.
I have long suspected that the Castillo family (Gallo) or the Botran family (Rum) would intervene rather than see millions of quetzals lost to the political pandering. That may still happen, but for now the power play looks like it’s going to happen. Where will all the tourists go when they realize that the city turns into a ghost town at 10pm on Friday night? Business owners in Panajachel are praying they go there. Will Monterrico become the place to hang out? They’re not likely to go to the capital.
You’re thinking, “Oh, this won’t happen, because the people need the jobs, and the city needs the tourism, and all of the vendors who sell to those businesses will lose out…”, and your thinking is perfectly logical but…I suspect this is about power and control. The old Antiguenos don’t like gringos here. They don’t care that tourism brings people and money here. They don’t care that retirees come and buy houses and invest in businesses and spend in a week what a local family will spend in a year. They don’t like any of that. They want the city to be like it was 20 or 50 years ago; theirs. And they have that right.
If this does go down and is rigidly enforced, I think it will be good to own a business in Pana and maybe, one at the beach, and advertise all the way from the airport out the Central American highway and Carretera 14 that “We’re tourist friendly and open till 2am”.
Stay tuned…




















