Archive for Way of Life
Ladron en La Casa
Posted by: | CommentsA while back, I posted that our laundry detergent and a bottle of fabric softener had gone missing. Some of you suggested it might have been taken and to tell you the truth, I didn’t want to think about it because that would most likely mean it was our maid that was stealing. She has been absolutely amazing with the boys and we have had very few problems with her, so I really, really didn’t want to consider that as a possibility.
The Monday after I was frantically looking for the laundry stuff and after Irving had called her at home to ask if she’d seen it, our maid miraculously discovered the laundry soap at the bottom of a laundry basket that both Irving and I had checked. It was odd, but I thought maybe we’d just looked too quickly and missed it. The fabric softener didn’t turn up at all.
Then Irving got a call to go play a gig and when he went to iron his shirt . . . no iron. Anywhere. He went and scoured his family’s house because they have a tendency to borrow it. But they had two new irons and he couldn’t find ours anywhere. The maid said she hadn’t seen it in months . . . which could easily be true since we haven’t used it in ages.
And now, over the past week….
Conversation on the Boat
Posted by: | CommentsI was at Atitlan recently and took the boat from Pana to San Pedro. As is always the case, the pilot had to stop several times to do something with the motor (during the 20 minute ride across the lake).
Then he drove right through the huge mass of trash that can be seen from hundreds of meters away and is always in the same place (I presume wind/water currents cause the trash to all gather there). Of course, about 3/4 of the way through it the trash had collected around the propeller and there was lots of back and forth on the throttle and screwing around with the prop and motor to get going again. I bit my tongue.
On the way back, the same process was repeated. So I asked the pilot:
DM: You know where the trash is, but you drive through it anyway?
Pilot: Si.
DM: Why?
Pilot: I don’t know.
DM: Why don’t you drive around the trash?
Pilot: It’s really big.
DM: Yeah, but the gas to drive around it is, como se dice “inconsequential”
Pilot: But it would add too much time.
DM: But when you drive through the trash lake we get stuck, and often sit for five or ten minutes while you play with the motor. That is inconvenient for the passengers and over the course of a day likely causes you to miss a round-trip worth of revenue.
Pilot: Fijese…
DM: Plus over time you are likely doing harm to the engine and propeller.
Pilot: [silence]
Then I noticed all the stares on the boat. The Indians were glaring, the Latinos trying to be invisible, the Indian girl from London with two enormous backpacks was laughing and the girl from Edinburgh with Daisy Duke cutoffs had eyes the size of saucers. My friend “Paul” appeared to be asleep, despite the wind, rain and three foot waves.
The pilot turned his back to me and refused to make eye contact. While we drifted towards the rocky north shore I wondered if my iPhone would survive if I had to make an early exit. Would “Paul” survive? Probably; he’s spent some time on open water. Fortunately, the pilot eventually got the motor started again and we arrived at the Pana dock without further incident. I saw “Paul” rush off the boat, pay the first guy he ran into and move up the shore a safe distance away, just in case, you know, there was some sort of reprisal for my imprudent questioning of the pilot’s navigation competence.
How Much Does a Visit to the Free Hospital Cost?
Posted by: | Comments“I need money for my sick kid”. This statement is made to us on a regular basis. Always by women. When men lie about needing money, they ask for their sick wife. When women lie about needing money, it is for their sick child. Not that needing the money is the lie, but the story they tell that they think will convince you, the merciful yet stupid gringo, to give them the money.
A Little Chat with El Taller
Posted by: | CommentsAs I mentioned in the last update on Fraulein, the drama escalated to a point where calling in Santiago was my only hope of pre-abogado resolution. True, Santiago does carry a gun, but the real purpose in taking him is because he grew up in HueHue in the ’50s and ’60s and retired here about 10 years ago and, to the point, understands how things really work here. Besides, suing this guy and putting him in jail for defrauding me doesn’t get me my car back, and it won’t even make me feel any better. After all, el abogado doesn’t work for free and I just want my !@#$%&* car back.
Of course, I wanted to call the taller to make sure he would be there, but Santiago says, “That’s not how it works. First, he won’t answer the phone. Second, you don’t want him to know you’re coming, and third, if there is something really nasty going on you’re more likely to discover it with a surprise visit.”
We arrive in San Felipe and Santiago strikes up a conversation with the mechanic. He’s pretty aggressive at first, really grilling the guy on how many months the car has been there, missing parts, asking for more money after we supplied the parts he said he needed, etc. The old mechanic held his own, with lots of gesticulating about pressure, valves, the car not having enough ‘oomph’, etc. I was only catching about 50% of what Santiago said and about 30% of what the taller said. What was clear to me was that Santiago was engaged in a dance of sorts, and I’m not just referring to the way he moves when talking as if he were involved in some sort of native feria, but a well-understand and time-tested dialogue of posturing and negotiation. Stuff that for better or worse has been eliminated from all but the most grand transactions in the US.
I could see him gradually easing up on the guy, and the guy gradually letting his guard down as the conversation continued. They were rehashing all the old things, and then throwing in new pieces of information here and there. It wasn’t unlike the negotiation at the mercado, except far more complex and lengthy. About 10 minutes into it-with only the occasional short explanation by Santiago-it started raining harder than it has since Agatha. The tin roof on the shop made it impossible to hear anything, but I could tell from the increasing frequency of smiles and laughs that Santiago was getting on well with the guy. Before long I could hear them commiserating about the Catholic Mafia in Antigua and other pejoratives that I can’t print here, more than one of which was launched in my direction.
Another 10 minutes of this and the heavy rain and I had figured out that the ‘missing’ part that had been ‘found’ was not so much found as ‘replaced’, through a ‘friend’ of the mechanic’s in the city. That had cost me Q1200, something Gunther had forgotten to mention. The odd thing was that this same ‘friend’ of the mechanic had also been able to locate the eight valves that needed to be replaced, the same eight valves that Gunther explained he couldn’t find in the US or Germany.
It was these valves that presumably keep the pressure inside the transmission that allows the parts to work at maximum efficiency, and the cost was Q3,500. So then Santiago asked an interesting question. “Don Marco wants the original parts back when you’re done; that’s no problem, right?” The mechanic paused for a moment, there was a fijese, and then, “Sure, no problem”. I realized that a great deal had just taken place; the mechanic had gotten the message that if the original part were to go missing like the earlier one, it might raise questions about the ‘new’ part, which just happens to be in an ‘inaccessible’ part of the ‘box’.
Next Santiago suggested that if the part was with a good friend of the mechanic’s, it would be no problem to install it first and try it out before paying for it. That led to another 5 minutes of conversation or so, and then I caught up to the mechanic saying, “Well, if you think you can get the money together, I can get the part from my friend, perhaps for even less than Q3500″.
That launched an entire additional round of conversation, with Santiago explaining that we had given Gunther the money months ago to buy all these parts, and the problem wasn’t with our money, but with the mechanic losing parts, etc. They rehashed everything again, apparently like chewing a piece of tough meat sufficiently, at which point the mechanic agreed that he would install the part ‘manana’, which seemed very timely indeed considering he didn’t have the part yet, and that he would take a few days to test it, and if we were happy, then we would pay. (Perhaps even a reduced price).
We all shook hands, with smiles all around, and left San Felipe. I immediately called Gunther to give him an update and to let him know that once the car had been fixed and we had all the old parts in hand, he could go ahead and pay the mechanic whatever we owed him. He agreed, but kept expressing that he was uncomfortable with how things were going.
Well, he had good reason to, because five days later the mechanic showed up at Gunther’s telling him he was tried of the gringos taking advantage of him, how he was losing money on the deal, and that he would never install a part without getting the money first, etc., etc. He then told Gunther that he was going to throw all the parts in the trunk and push the car out into the street and abandon it. My first instinct was to call Santiago and a few other locals and show up armed and ready to tow the car. We had obviously caught the guy in one big scam to sell me old parts as new (or not even change the parts and sell them as new), and he was going to keep milking this as long as he could, which had come to an end with our friendly visit and insistence that we get the old parts. At the very best, he was completely incompetent and was unwilling to admit it until we forced the situation.
But assuming we towed the car out, we’d have no idea about the location of the parts or the condition, and jerking the car off his lot still wouldn’t get me anywhere. I did have clarity about one thing; we couldn’t trust this guy and there was no reason to expect anything good to come from additional good will or patience.
(to be continued)
What’s a Life Worth, Part 2
Posted by: | CommentsI Get It
Posted by: | CommentsA gringo friend of mine who is pretty direct recently said to me, “You realize that a lot of people in this town don’t like you”. I just laughed and told him I already knew. He seemed surprised, and asked if I thought I knew why.
I went on to explain that the far left expats (probably 50% of the total), don’t like me because I hold opinions different from theirs. My experience has been that ‘true believers’ on the Left can’t tolerate dissent, and so for them maintaining relationships with someone willing to challenge their assumptions is difficult at best. Some of the business owners in town don’t like me because I (diplomatically), explained that I wasn’t interested in buying their business at 2 or 3 times the actual value. Once I explained myself to other possible investors the market kind of soured on those businesses.
Some of the locals don’t like me because I speak the truth about life here, and most Guatemalans can’t stand criticism (or at least from a gringo). It’s okay for illegal immigrants in the US to speak their mind, protest, even riot, but it’s not okay for a gringo in Guatemala to say anything other than, “Isn’t it beautiful here…aren’t the people so charming…I never knew my own culture was so horrible”, etc., etc. One of the things you’ll read here-but not elsewhere-is that many Chapines are very thin-skinned. Of course my experiences are limited, but I think in the US and Europe we’re much more accustomed to criticism of our culture, governments, opinions, even way of life. Maybe people are more discreet here, or maybe my Spanish is so bad I’m insulting them when merely trying to convey a suggestion, such as, “You know it would really be best if you were prepared for our meeting” or “If you tell me 1pm, don’t show up at 2:30pm with a few uninvited friends and act as if you’re on time”.
After a few other examples, my friend interrupted and said, “No, I think it’s much simpler. In this town you’re supposed to be a hippie, a druggie, down on your luck, incapable of making it back home, a missionary of some sort, hiding from someone or a misfit. You appear to be self-confident, happily married with normal kids (little does he know!), and don’t appear to need anything. They can’t stand that. It drives them crazy. That’s why all the wild conspiracies, because in the absence of anything real, they have to make stuff up.”
So my offense is much simpler; I’m normal. And here I thought it was because I was just so darned exciting.
Welcome to GuateLiving.
My Cover is Officially Blown
Posted by: | CommentsOld Guy: Excuse me, aren’t you Mark?
DM: As far as you know.
Old Guy: My name is [obscured]
DM: Nice to meet you.
Old Guy: I heard what you did the other night at [obscured].
DM: Oh? What was that?
Old Guy: C’mon, everyone knows, it was even on [obscured]’s blog, but I’m just surprised that someone who is supposed to be undercover would kick the !@#$ out of an Antigueno.
DM: Undercover? And I didn’t realize anyone read [obscured]’s blog.
Old Guy: Yeah, don’t pretend…everyone in town knows and yes, the 30 most important people in town read his blog.
DM: Thirty? Wow. And everyone knows what?
Old Guy: You work for Mossad. It’s an open secret.
DM: I didn’t realize so many people knew.
Old Guy: I knew it! So you don’t deny beating that guy up? Don’t you think that gives your people a bad rap?
DM: My people?
Old Guy: You know…YOUR people.
DM: Oh, you mean Mossad? Or Jews?
Old Guy: You said it.
DM: Okay.
Old Guy: So tell me what REALLY happened.
DM: I was minding my business, enjoying the benefits of my Que Pasa VIP card and a chess game, when all of a sudden these Antiguenos who were stoned and drunk started hassling these ladies at the bar, and more importantly, breaking my concentration. So [owner of the bar] tried to throw them out, but the guys were a little more than what he could handle. I just waited for the right minute, put a full nelson on the big one and took his legs out from under him. There was a sickening thud as he kissed the floor and was immediately very compliant.
Old Guy: I guess that’s nothing for you Mossad guys.
DM: Yeah, well, he was seriously built but I had 30 pounds and surprise on my side. It kind of put a damper on the evening…blood does that.
Old Guy: Wow. Nice to meet you.
DM: Pleasure is all yours. Shalom.
Boombas or Guns?
Posted by: | CommentsOne thing I never imagined I would learn living here in Guatemala is the difference between a gunshot and the more frequent boombas, but we’ve definitely picked it up. About a week ago I heard what I was certain was several, small caliber gun shots in succession and asked the teenager. “What do you think, gun or boomba?” He agreed it was a gun.
Then last night the Wife and I heard three quick gun shots, and then an engine racing and tires squealing. If there was any doubt about the origin of the sound, about 20 minutes later (better late than never), we heard a siren. Related? Possibly; they run their red and blue lights all the time but rarely use the full-on siren.




















