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Archive for Cost of Living

After smoking all my cigars, finishing ‘Guns, Germs and Steel‘ and getting deep into ‘The Epic of Latin America” (book review to come), I decided it was time to make the return trip home.  Casa Mexicana will definitely be the site of future vacations, with great food (regrettably only for breakfast), a tranquil environment and five star staff for only 600 pesos a night.  Each of the guest rooms is named after a famous Mexican woman (I got Frida Kahlo), and is well appointed.

I did have some recommendations for the owners, including:

  • Free tequila between lunch and dinner for those smoking cigars poolside
  • Free massages for guests who stay more than one night
  • Name a room for Salma Hayek or Ana de la Reguera instead of one of Mexico’s most prominent communist activists

But otherwise no complaints.

A taxi driver who couldn’t understand a word of “Autobus por favor” or “La camioneta por favor” or “Tengo que regresar a Guatemala en uno de los grandes autobuses” eventually got me back to the bus station where the same senoritas as before giggled at me and confirmed my seat on the upper deck of the Transgalgos bus, “donde no se sentará cerca de enojados, los niños cansados, con hambre o de otra manera desagradable” .  It was right on time (30 minutes late) and we sped to the border in air conditioned comfort.

Going south is a lot easier than going north.  Apparently no one cares about who or what you smuggle south across the border.  The Mexicans stamped my passport-again without looking-and I walked across to the other side where 20 minutes in line and 10Q got me stamped back into the country.  The computer network was down, which means my passport was stamped ’sin energia’, so that when I leave the country again and there is no record of my entry into the computer I don’t get (too much of) a hassle about my most recent travel.  They never took the bags off the bus or asked me what I was carrying, although everyone in town offered to change currency at absurdly low rates.

On the Guate side I noticed that I could have walked across the bridge south and continued walking and never been stopped by anyone.  If I didn’t have a bag, I’m pretty sure you could walk north without being molested or ever setting foot into migracion.  In fact, as I glanced down into the river, I noticed lots of people walking back and forth across the barely moving stream.  I wondered why we don’t police this border instead of the far longer one a few thousand miles north, but such rational thoughts don’t belong in the field of government service and so I pushed it aside and got back to wondering whether the bus driver would let me off at Escuintla.

You see, this bus goes from Tapachula to Guate, but my house is only about 45 mintues from Tapachula, which could save me an hour or more, so I had asked the clerks, the piloto and the stewardess if they would let me get off at Sarita in Escuintla.  They all assured me yes, and sure enough about 5 hours later they pulled to the side of the road and the stewardess climbed into the belly of the bus to pull out my luggage (in the future I’ll see that my bag is the last one into the luggage compartment).  She declined my offer of a tip and the bus sped away.

Sarita is  popular chain of restaurants that target strategic intersections around the country.  It’s the same company of ice cream fame here.  It’s similar to a family restaurant in the states, which means the food and service are average and children are plentiful.  A short time later Santiago picked me up and my journey was complete.

Some trip costs for you obsessive types:

Two Cuban cigars in Antigua:  160Q

Shuttle to city:  80Q

Internet use at bus station:  5Q for 15 minutes

Bus to Tapachula:  160Q

Late fee at Guate migracion:  10Q per day

Fee to boy to drag bag 200 meters:  5 pesos

Cost to enter Mexico for solo tres dias:  0 pesos

Tip for old man unloading bag in Tapachula:  5 pesos

Taxi to hotel:  250 pesos

One night at Loma Real:  1000 pesos

Fajitas and beer at Loma Real:  225 pesos

Taxi to Casa Mexicana:  250 pesos

Bottle of El Jimeador Tequila:  130 pesos

One night at Casa Mexicana:  600 pesos

Taxi back to bus station:  250 pesos

Bus ticket back to Guate:  245 pesos

Money that disappeared on food, alcohol and misc:  800 pesos

Learning how things really work at the border and making friends with El Jefe de Migracion:  priceless

El Blogador hasn’t been blogging as often recently, perhaps because he’s spending time in Tapachula instead of London or Antigua:

But a couple of days ago I went to buy a medium-sized cup of iced coffee in the shop within this nicely rennovated bandstand in Tapachula, and was asked to pay 27 pesos for it ($2). It would have cost roughly the same in London, capital of soi disant ‘Rip-off Britain’. But this was Chiapas, which in many other respects still seems to offer the most sensible prices in Central America.

Still, I’ve kind of grown used to rip-off prices in Guatemala, even if I don’t quite understand them. A cup of capuccino or a pizza from Domino’s costs approximately 20% less than it would in London, but I can’t think of any overheads affecting the restauranteur which could mount up to anything like 80% of their UK equivalents.

The killer in London is the cost of renting a retail unit suitable for a coffee shop. Any building in the centre which doesn’t cut it as a locus for shopping can relatively easily be switched to alternative, more rentable uses such as office space or car parking. The owner of the building will generally go for the most profitable usage. Wages are also considerably higher in the UK, with the national minimum set at roughly $9 an hour.

So why is a lot of restaurant food (especially the faster sort) so expensive in Antigua? Can’t be the ingredients (mostly local), the property rent or the labour costs. Maybe red tape is a major overhead here, but then Guatemalan businesses aren’t paying anything like the same sort of corporation tax.

And bear in mind that the average middle class consumer is also earning a lot less (though arguably also paying less to the banks and the government), and so if the pizza seems pricey to me…

Maybe it’s because there’s scarcity, but on the demand side: the number of people able to pay X for a Domino’s pizza in Antigua is as small as the number of affluent tourists in Tapachula and so the price of X has to go up to cover reduced volume. Hmmm, maybe I am economically naive after all.

El Blogador is in Chiapas and is wondering why his iced coffee costs so much when other goods are relatively inexpensive.  Note that he is buying an iced coffee (and we can assume it’s good coffee), not tortillas and beans, and that he’s buying it from a nicely renovated shop.  This hints give us a preliminary understanding of why the coffee is relatively expensive, at least to other goods in Tapachula.

The drink he ordered is not a common one in Tapachula.  Locals don’t drink a lot of iced coffee.  They do eat a lot of tortillas and beans and don’t care how well renovated the eatery is.  They certainly wouldn’t willingly pay more just to eat at a nice eastablishment.  So in the cost ingredient of the coffee we have built in both an exotic product (if not because the coffee itself is exotic because of the relative scarcity of the availability in the aforementioned form), and also a nicer establishment from which to buy the product.  Both of these issues contribute to higher overhead, driving the price higher.  The exotic product requires a greater investment in bringing it to the market and there is a greater risk that it will go unsold.  When you are a bean merchant in Mexico or Guatemala, there’s not much risk of demand evaporating; in Tapachula they have many reasons to worry that foreigners might stop showing up, or at least in as great numbers (Swine Flu, regional violence, economic crisis, etc).

Next El Blogador considers Antigua prices and the overhead, surmising that although prices in Antigua are generally lower than London, the latter’s prices can be somewhat justified when considering overhead.  As we discussed before, overhead is a factor, and although Antigua commercial rents are quite high (you can rent a place in Phoenix at a lower price per square foot), this alone doesn’t justify the price.  (You’ll have to wait for my dissertation on Antigua real estate prices).

Just as in Tapachula the product offering was an exotic one, this also is the case in Antigua.  Whether it is Dominos or a cappuccino, the product is essentially an import.  Yes, I know they make coffee here but the coffee the locals drink and the coffee I get in my cappuccino is not the same, and I’ve seen coffee bags around town that have been imported from the US.  It wouldn’t surprise me to discover the coffee was grown here, shipped to the US, packaged and shipped back.  Even if it remains here and is manufactured and marketed for local consumption, the buyer of that coffee is not the common man, but a wealthy local, extranjero or tourist.  More goes into the packaging, marketing and sales of the product than the actual ingredients.  Don’t fall into the temptation of thinking this isn’t ‘fair’; most products are this way (and life isn’t fair, just ask my teenager).

This means that the market for the product is greatly reduced.  Normally a smaller market means lower prices, because small markets often have corresponding small demands (in the aggregate), but occasionally this is not true.  There is a small market for a Ferrari, but the price remains high because it is an exotic product and the small market has the ability to pay for it.  Ferrari wouldn’t make money selling at half the price, and probably wouldn’t want to sell a product half as valuable, and so at a greatly reduced price the Ferrari would not be available.  It is the same with pizza and lattes in Antigua.  The demand, in the aggregate, is small, but within the market it is quite high.  I suspect prices for coffee and Dominos pizza could go up by 30% and there would be very little change in volume, because the demand-though limited-is intense, and further, the demand is for good coffee.

This deserves an additional consideration.  How are prices determined?  El Blogador considers overhead, and market forces, but neglects to mention the primary motive for setting prices:  profit.  The merchant must cover all of his costs, he must cover the cost of his own time, he must put a value on the risk his capital is taking, and finally he must set prices to provide a profit.

If the price of the product does not cover all these things, then the business will fail.  You see this daily around town as businesses are closing up because at a given volume they could not adequately meet all those objectives.  Where there is not profit, there will not be a lasting, profitable business.  (In this country many will survive but will not be profitable).  In Venezuela we have recently seen why socialism always fails, why it must fail, because prices are subsidized to promote a political ideology instead of allowing to work, which brought about scarcity and eventually a currency devaluation.  That too will have to wait for another time.

Another factor is the government.  El Blogador and other promoters of substantial government involvement in society (also known as Marxists), point to the benefits of governmental involvement and would cite regulations that benefit the consumer, strong infrastructure, etc.  Naturally there are costs that come along with that, first and foremost a high tax rate, secondly the drain on economic growth that comes with government taxation and regulation, and finally the infringement of personal and economic freedoms.  Most importantly when the government consumes money it returns to the economy less than it takes in, whereas private businesses return more through the creation of value, through innovation, etc.

In Guatemala the government is so dysfunctional you have both the presence of taxes and regulation, though they are widely subverted, and you have the lack of the societal benefits or infrastructure that is normally the product of government’s involvement.  For all my complaints about governements in general, the streets in the US are generally well constructed, well maintained, and traffic lights work, etc.  But here in Guate the streets are a mess, there is inadequate parking, buildings are crumbling, and genrally infrastructure is insufficient.  In addition you have the violence, a poorly trained work force, and high rates of crime.

The whole point of this is that there are substantially greater risks to the entrepreneur and his capital here than elsewhere.  If you invest in London or NYC, you do so without a great deal of fear about certain risks to your capital, whereas here you must protect your capital like a pioneer might who was headed west in 19th century America. Those risks keep a lot of businesses out of the market, which reduces the supply of products and services.  This forces prices higher.  (It also means the opportunity for those of us who are here is greater).

As with all prices, the market determines them.  In this case El Blogador’s willingness to ‘overpay’ for that iced coffee is itself a testament to why the price is so high, just as I am willing to pay 16Q for a cappucino at the park or 100Q for a Cohiba or 150Q for a good pizza (not Dominos).  There is a concentration of people like El Blogador and Don Marco in this town, which is why the prices are so high (for everything from real estate to cheese).

So in conclusion, prices in Antigua tend to be high, relative to the economy and the region.  They are high because the goods in question are unique/exclusive, because there are relatively few of them and because the risks to the merchant and his capital are great, and because the demand, while small, is intense.  The next time you find yourself wondering at prices in Antigua (or Atitlan), apply this approach and you’ll find the answer.

This gal is as frugal as they come:

Room & Board $200 (lives with a Guatemalan family, has private room and bathroom, eats 3 meals a day there except for Sundays)

Entertainment $100 (a few meals out, drinks a few times a month)

Medical $20

Misc $100

Total $420

I’m reminded that people want privacy with these postings, and of course anything you send to me will be posted with as much anonymity as you request. If you want me to say, “A retired teacher from Kalamazoo, MI, with his soon-to-be 18 year-old girlfriend from Puerto Rico”, I will, but otherwise I’m going generic.

This couple is in their 60s, are from the midwest and have lived in Guatemala for some time.  They live in a condo in a gated community just outside of Antigua.  I would describe their lifestyle as comfortable.

Rent $900 (includes use of community benefits)

Food $350 (includes wine at home)

Entertainment $300 (they eat out at nice places several times a week)

Travel $500 (varies but travel to Atitlan, Rio Dulce, Monterrico, Mexico, includes all travel, lodging expenses, etc)

Medicine $45

Maid $100

Electricity $100

Gas $12

Internet $40

Satellite $35

Misc $300

Total $2732

Our series on Cost of Living in Antigua Guatemala continues with a local example.  This is a 30 year-old Guatemalan man, his Korean wife and their two year-old daughter.  They live a combination tipico life with some Korean food mixed in.

Rent $150 (they live in a small one bedroom apartment just outside of Antigua, the house has a small kitchen, a dining room, living room, one bedroom and one bath, a patio about 6×6′)

Electricity $25

Gas $10

Food $175 (includes diapers, some beer)

Misc $75

Total $435

A young bachelor can live in a cardboard box under an overpass and do okay.  In our series on Cost of Living in Antigua Guatemala, I’m passing along this real-life budget for a young American bachelor in Antigua.  I love how the priorities are so obvious when you look at a budget.

Rent $225 (studio apartment in Antigua, includes water, electricity, internet)

Food $200 (includes some meals at restaurants, no breakfast, light lunch)

Alcohol $200 (mostly beer at local restaurants/bars)

Pure Water $8

Gym $22

Misc $100

Total $755

This family lives what I would call a ‘blended’ lifestyle, but closer to Guatemalan than your typical NorteAmericano.  The house was built on the husband’s parents’ property, and is paid for, so there’s no rent.  They live in a town outside of Antigua, in a typical neighborhood.  The house is on the small side, so there isn’t much electrical consumption.

Overview:  Canadian-Guatemalan family, 2 small children, house (2 bdrms, 1 main room)

Rent N/A

Electricity $50

Gas $30

Groceries $250 (For 2 adults, 2 under 4, includes diapers, etc.)

Internet $75

Maid Salary $100

Pure Water $80

Entertainment $30-50

Misc $50

Total:  $685

One of the top requests I receive by email from readers is for detailed cost of living information.  For the last two months the Wife and I have been meticulously tracking expenses in part so we can share with readers the cost of living here.  There have been some surprises, for sure, and I’ll be posting detailed spreadsheet style information shortly.

I’d like to ask readers who are living here to email me with some information on their family size, style of eating, whether you live like locals or like NorteAmericanos or some combination, any unusual characteristics, etc.  If it’s too personal, don’t send it to me, but I’m going to post an example so you can follow.  If I get the right amount of response, I’ll make this a regular event.

Overview:  American family with six kids, including one in diapers.  This family lives in a gated neighborhood.  Here are the highlights of the monthly family budget:

Rent $750 (3 bedroom plus maid’s quarters, small garden)

Electricity $155

Gas $15

Food $1,000 (Family has two adults, two teenagers, four kids under 12, eats meat, fish and total includes diapers, wine, household consumables such as soap, TP, one meal a day for maid, etc)

Satellite TV $50

Internet $65

Maid Salary $100

Pure Water $30

Entertainment $100

Misc $100

Total:  $2365

Hopefully this example will inspire some of you to email your own numbers and I’ll post them in occasional posts.  Include any commentary you think necessary, for example, you’ll see the family above is relatively young and has not listed any medical expenses.  Their entertainment and ‘misc’ categories seem a little weak to me as well…

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