High Speed Internet in Antigua with No Contracts!
 

Archive for Cost of Living

I snapped this at PriceSmart; reliable sources say that's a good price.

I get a lot of email and I try to post occasionally for readers who are thinking about moving to Guate.  Here’s a recent example of correspondence that is typical.

Hi,
What is the cost of living in Antigua? On average how much does one need to live comfortably there?

I don’t want to be flippant, but if I asked you how much does one need to live comfortably in your state, it might be difficult to answer.  I know people who live here on $700 a month and I have a friend who spends about $7000 a month.  Most are somewhere in between.

It is easy to spend a lot of money here if you are trying to recreate the exact same life you had in your state, because anything imported or not native is going to be expensive.  Fruits, vegetables, and meat are cheap, labor is very cheap, but energy, technology, etc., are not.  On my blog I have provided extensive examples of cost of living.  For my family the biggest advantages are lots of fresh fruits and vegetables at half the price of the US, and we have a nanny and a maid and they cost $1 an hour.

Why and How did you chose Antigua?

The best weather in the world, easy to reach from the US, Spanish (which I wanted to learn), and a low cost of living.

As of now, I am interested in teaching English as a Foreign language because this is the only job that I thought may be available for an American like me. Are there jobs like this in Antigua?

There are so many English speakers here doing this same thing the wages are not good, maybe $2-4 an hour.  Unless you are sponsored by a NGO, mission, or big company doing business here, you’re not going to get a work visa, which means a legit job is out of the question.  Most Americans here are either retired, or like me they pursue business opportunities.  The Americans that are working ‘real’ jobs are doing things like giving tours or bartending, and they get paid Guatemalan wages, e.g., $2 an hour.

Do you know of any other jobs that may be available to Americans!

Buy or start a business!  Check out the data on my website under ‘invest in Guate’ and scroll through my blog to learn more about making the move and living here.

Yesterday I posted a picture from la bodegona showing the prices of their fruits and vegetables and a few readers remarked how expensive it was.  Things are much cheaper at the mercado…sometimes.  We use a family in the mercado that offers delivery service in and around Guatemala, so we pay a premium, but they pick out the very best stuff for us and deliver to our home.  Local readers please comment and share the price you pay for items.

They will also shop for me, bringing anything they don't sell themselves, e.g., the ground pork you see listed above.

From the bodegona:

Sorry for the pic quality, they discourage picture-taking in la bodegona

Expat-Blog recently asked for some feedback on Cost of Living in Guatemala.  I know many of you have cost of living as a primary investigation objective.  Here are their questions and my quick answers, readers feel free to post your own experiences:
> accommodation prices

I spend $1000 a month for my large house with two terraces, two salons, large kitchen, 4 bedrooms.  You can get a studio apartment for as little as $250 around Antigua.  I know people who spend $3000 a month in rent in exclusive neighborhoods and some who spend $150 a month for a two bedroom apartment with concrete floors and walls.

> public transportation fares (tube, bus etc …)

Chicken bus around Antigua is about 2Q, a TukTuk is 10Q inside the town, 15-25Q to outlying towns, taxis will be 25-50Q depending on time of day and destination.  $10 gets you a private shuttle to Atitlan or the capital, or about $35 for a taxi.

> food prices(per month, how much does it cost you?)

Fruit and vegetables are cheap compared to Europe and US, imported goods, dairy products are expensive.  Chicken and beef is about the same as the US.  If you eat like locals, your food costs will be low.  If you eat like you would in the US, you won’t save much (if any).

> health prices (for those who need medical insurance)

My wife had a baby here it cost $600 including an ambulance.  Emergency room visits, stitches and antibiotics for a kid who broke a window was about $50.  Ultrasound was $25.  Doctor visit is about $25, most medicines are under $10.  I suggest a high deductible plan to airlift you to the US if you have brain cancer, otherwise pay out of pocket for your expenses.

> eduction prices (if you need to pay)

Most Spanish classes are about $5 an hour through a school.  Some tutors will work privately with you for half that.  Other educational opportunities are available with prices as low as 20Q a month for multiple group sessions.  Some private schools in the area charge about $100 per month for tuition.

> energy prices (oil, electricity)

Electricity is expensive here compared to most places in the US.  My electric bill is about $200 a month and of course I don’t have AC or heat.  In the US it was less than that including AC and heat.  Gasoline is around $3.20 a gallon, diesel is a little cheaper.

> common bills (Internet, television, telephone, mobile phone)

Internet is comparable to the US, $30 to $60 depending on speed.  Telephones are expensive, you pay for every call here, rates vary between 3 and 8 US cents per minute for local calls.  Mobile phone rates are expensive compared to the US, about 1-2Q per minute for local calls, about 8 US cents for calls to the US.

> prices of a good menu in a traditional restaurant

You can eat at a ‘tipico’ restaurant for about 22Q, McDonalds, BurgerKing, Subway have similar products and similar menu prices to the US (not exact in price or sizes though), or you can spend $30 per person at a great restaurant in town.

> prices of a beer and or a coffee in a regular pub

Beer ranges from 15Q to 22Q (up to 35Q for nice German imports), coffee in the 8Q range to 16Q for a cappuccino.

> price of the cinema

Don’t go.  DVDs in the mercado are 15Q for gringos, 10Q for locals.

After smoking all my cigars, finishing ‘Guns, Germs and Steel‘ and getting deep into ‘The Epic of Latin America” (book review to come), I decided it was time to make the return trip home.  Casa Mexicana will definitely be the site of future vacations, with great food (regrettably only for breakfast), a tranquil environment and five star staff for only 600 pesos a night.  Each of the guest rooms is named after a famous Mexican woman (I got Frida Kahlo), and is well appointed.

I did have some recommendations for the owners, including:

  • Free tequila between lunch and dinner for those smoking cigars poolside
  • Free massages for guests who stay more than one night
  • Name a room for Salma Hayek or Ana de la Reguera instead of one of Mexico’s most prominent communist activists

But otherwise no complaints.

A taxi driver who couldn’t understand a word of “Autobus por favor” or “La camioneta por favor” or “Tengo que regresar a Guatemala en uno de los grandes autobuses” eventually got me back to the bus station where the same senoritas as before giggled at me and confirmed my seat on the upper deck of the Transgalgos bus, “donde no se sentará cerca de enojados, los niños cansados, con hambre o de otra manera desagradable” .  It was right on time (30 minutes late) and we sped to the border in air conditioned comfort.

Going south is a lot easier than going north.  Apparently no one cares about who or what you smuggle south across the border.  The Mexicans stamped my passport-again without looking-and I walked across to the other side where 20 minutes in line and 10Q got me stamped back into the country.  The computer network was down, which means my passport was stamped ’sin energia’, so that when I leave the country again and there is no record of my entry into the computer I don’t get (too much of) a hassle about my most recent travel.  They never took the bags off the bus or asked me what I was carrying, although everyone in town offered to change currency at absurdly low rates.

On the Guate side I noticed that I could have walked across the bridge south and continued walking and never been stopped by anyone.  If I didn’t have a bag, I’m pretty sure you could walk north without being molested or ever setting foot into migracion.  In fact, as I glanced down into the river, I noticed lots of people walking back and forth across the barely moving stream.  I wondered why we don’t police this border instead of the far longer one a few thousand miles north, but such rational thoughts don’t belong in the field of government service and so I pushed it aside and got back to wondering whether the bus driver would let me off at Escuintla.

You see, this bus goes from Tapachula to Guate, but my house is only about 45 mintues from Tapachula, which could save me an hour or more, so I had asked the clerks, the piloto and the stewardess if they would let me get off at Sarita in Escuintla.  They all assured me yes, and sure enough about 5 hours later they pulled to the side of the road and the stewardess climbed into the belly of the bus to pull out my luggage (in the future I’ll see that my bag is the last one into the luggage compartment).  She declined my offer of a tip and the bus sped away.

Sarita is  popular chain of restaurants that target strategic intersections around the country.  It’s the same company of ice cream fame here.  It’s similar to a family restaurant in the states, which means the food and service are average and children are plentiful.  A short time later Santiago picked me up and my journey was complete.

Some trip costs for you obsessive types:

Two Cuban cigars in Antigua:  160Q

Shuttle to city:  80Q

Internet use at bus station:  5Q for 15 minutes

Bus to Tapachula:  160Q

Late fee at Guate migracion:  10Q per day

Fee to boy to drag bag 200 meters:  5 pesos

Cost to enter Mexico for solo tres dias:  0 pesos

Tip for old man unloading bag in Tapachula:  5 pesos

Taxi to hotel:  250 pesos

One night at Loma Real:  1000 pesos

Fajitas and beer at Loma Real:  225 pesos

Taxi to Casa Mexicana:  250 pesos

Bottle of El Jimeador Tequila:  130 pesos

One night at Casa Mexicana:  600 pesos

Taxi back to bus station:  250 pesos

Bus ticket back to Guate:  245 pesos

Money that disappeared on food, alcohol and misc:  800 pesos

Learning how things really work at the border and making friends with El Jefe de Migracion:  priceless

El Blogador hasn’t been blogging as often recently, perhaps because he’s spending time in Tapachula instead of London or Antigua:

But a couple of days ago I went to buy a medium-sized cup of iced coffee in the shop within this nicely rennovated bandstand in Tapachula, and was asked to pay 27 pesos for it ($2). It would have cost roughly the same in London, capital of soi disant ‘Rip-off Britain’. But this was Chiapas, which in many other respects still seems to offer the most sensible prices in Central America.

Still, I’ve kind of grown used to rip-off prices in Guatemala, even if I don’t quite understand them. A cup of capuccino or a pizza from Domino’s costs approximately 20% less than it would in London, but I can’t think of any overheads affecting the restauranteur which could mount up to anything like 80% of their UK equivalents.

The killer in London is the cost of renting a retail unit suitable for a coffee shop. Any building in the centre which doesn’t cut it as a locus for shopping can relatively easily be switched to alternative, more rentable uses such as office space or car parking. The owner of the building will generally go for the most profitable usage. Wages are also considerably higher in the UK, with the national minimum set at roughly $9 an hour.

So why is a lot of restaurant food (especially the faster sort) so expensive in Antigua? Can’t be the ingredients (mostly local), the property rent or the labour costs. Maybe red tape is a major overhead here, but then Guatemalan businesses aren’t paying anything like the same sort of corporation tax.

And bear in mind that the average middle class consumer is also earning a lot less (though arguably also paying less to the banks and the government), and so if the pizza seems pricey to me…

Maybe it’s because there’s scarcity, but on the demand side: the number of people able to pay X for a Domino’s pizza in Antigua is as small as the number of affluent tourists in Tapachula and so the price of X has to go up to cover reduced volume. Hmmm, maybe I am economically naive after all.

El Blogador is in Chiapas and is wondering why his iced coffee costs so much when other goods are relatively inexpensive.  Note that he is buying an iced coffee (and we can assume it’s good coffee), not tortillas and beans, and that he’s buying it from a nicely renovated shop.  This hints give us a preliminary understanding of why the coffee is relatively expensive, at least to other goods in Tapachula.

The drink he ordered is not a common one in Tapachula.  Locals don’t drink a lot of iced coffee.  They do eat a lot of tortillas and beans and don’t care how well renovated the eatery is.  They certainly wouldn’t willingly pay more just to eat at a nice eastablishment.  So in the cost ingredient of the coffee we have built in both an exotic product (if not because the coffee itself is exotic because of the relative scarcity of the availability in the aforementioned form), and also a nicer establishment from which to buy the product.  Both of these issues contribute to higher overhead, driving the price higher.  The exotic product requires a greater investment in bringing it to the market and there is a greater risk that it will go unsold.  When you are a bean merchant in Mexico or Guatemala, there’s not much risk of demand evaporating; in Tapachula they have many reasons to worry that foreigners might stop showing up, or at least in as great numbers (Swine Flu, regional violence, economic crisis, etc).

Next El Blogador considers Antigua prices and the overhead, surmising that although prices in Antigua are generally lower than London, the latter’s prices can be somewhat justified when considering overhead.  As we discussed before, overhead is a factor, and although Antigua commercial rents are quite high (you can rent a place in Phoenix at a lower price per square foot), this alone doesn’t justify the price.  (You’ll have to wait for my dissertation on Antigua real estate prices).

Just as in Tapachula the product offering was an exotic one, this also is the case in Antigua.  Whether it is Dominos or a cappuccino, the product is essentially an import.  Yes, I know they make coffee here but the coffee the locals drink and the coffee I get in my cappuccino is not the same, and I’ve seen coffee bags around town that have been imported from the US.  It wouldn’t surprise me to discover the coffee was grown here, shipped to the US, packaged and shipped back.  Even if it remains here and is manufactured and marketed for local consumption, the buyer of that coffee is not the common man, but a wealthy local, extranjero or tourist.  More goes into the packaging, marketing and sales of the product than the actual ingredients.  Don’t fall into the temptation of thinking this isn’t ‘fair’; most products are this way (and life isn’t fair, just ask my teenager).

This means that the market for the product is greatly reduced.  Normally a smaller market means lower prices, because small markets often have corresponding small demands (in the aggregate), but occasionally this is not true.  There is a small market for a Ferrari, but the price remains high because it is an exotic product and the small market has the ability to pay for it.  Ferrari wouldn’t make money selling at half the price, and probably wouldn’t want to sell a product half as valuable, and so at a greatly reduced price the Ferrari would not be available.  It is the same with pizza and lattes in Antigua.  The demand, in the aggregate, is small, but within the market it is quite high.  I suspect prices for coffee and Dominos pizza could go up by 30% and there would be very little change in volume, because the demand-though limited-is intense, and further, the demand is for good coffee.

This deserves an additional consideration.  How are prices determined?  El Blogador considers overhead, and market forces, but neglects to mention the primary motive for setting prices:  profit.  The merchant must cover all of his costs, he must cover the cost of his own time, he must put a value on the risk his capital is taking, and finally he must set prices to provide a profit.

If the price of the product does not cover all these things, then the business will fail.  You see this daily around town as businesses are closing up because at a given volume they could not adequately meet all those objectives.  Where there is not profit, there will not be a lasting, profitable business.  (In this country many will survive but will not be profitable).  In Venezuela we have recently seen why socialism always fails, why it must fail, because prices are subsidized to promote a political ideology instead of allowing to work, which brought about scarcity and eventually a currency devaluation.  That too will have to wait for another time.

Another factor is the government.  El Blogador and other promoters of substantial government involvement in society (also known as Marxists), point to the benefits of governmental involvement and would cite regulations that benefit the consumer, strong infrastructure, etc.  Naturally there are costs that come along with that, first and foremost a high tax rate, secondly the drain on economic growth that comes with government taxation and regulation, and finally the infringement of personal and economic freedoms.  Most importantly when the government consumes money it returns to the economy less than it takes in, whereas private businesses return more through the creation of value, through innovation, etc.

In Guatemala the government is so dysfunctional you have both the presence of taxes and regulation, though they are widely subverted, and you have the lack of the societal benefits or infrastructure that is normally the product of government’s involvement.  For all my complaints about governements in general, the streets in the US are generally well constructed, well maintained, and traffic lights work, etc.  But here in Guate the streets are a mess, there is inadequate parking, buildings are crumbling, and genrally infrastructure is insufficient.  In addition you have the violence, a poorly trained work force, and high rates of crime.

The whole point of this is that there are substantially greater risks to the entrepreneur and his capital here than elsewhere.  If you invest in London or NYC, you do so without a great deal of fear about certain risks to your capital, whereas here you must protect your capital like a pioneer might who was headed west in 19th century America. Those risks keep a lot of businesses out of the market, which reduces the supply of products and services.  This forces prices higher.  (It also means the opportunity for those of us who are here is greater).

As with all prices, the market determines them.  In this case El Blogador’s willingness to ‘overpay’ for that iced coffee is itself a testament to why the price is so high, just as I am willing to pay 16Q for a cappucino at the park or 100Q for a Cohiba or 150Q for a good pizza (not Dominos).  There is a concentration of people like El Blogador and Don Marco in this town, which is why the prices are so high (for everything from real estate to cheese).

So in conclusion, prices in Antigua tend to be high, relative to the economy and the region.  They are high because the goods in question are unique/exclusive, because there are relatively few of them and because the risks to the merchant and his capital are great, and because the demand, while small, is intense.  The next time you find yourself wondering at prices in Antigua (or Atitlan), apply this approach and you’ll find the answer.

This gal is as frugal as they come:

Room & Board $200 (lives with a Guatemalan family, has private room and bathroom, eats 3 meals a day there except for Sundays)

Entertainment $100 (a few meals out, drinks a few times a month)

Medical $20

Misc $100

Total $420

This is a Widget Section

This section is widgetized. If you would like to add content to this section, you may do so by using the Widgets panel from within your WordPress Admin Dashboard. This Widget Section is called "Feature Bottom Left"

This is a Widget Section

This section is widgetized. If you would like to add content to this section, you may do so by using the Widgets panel from within your WordPress Admin Dashboard. This Widget Section is called "Feature Bottom Middle"

This is a Widget Section

This section is widgetized. If you would like to add content to this section, you may do so by using the Widgets panel from within your WordPress Admin Dashboard. This Widget Section is called "Feature Bottom Right"