Archive for culture
“You’re Gonna Get a Beatin’ Tonight”
Posted by: | CommentsYou’ll want to get a cup of coffee (or something stronger), for this one.
I had a conversation recently with a female expat-who I’ll call “Emma”-who lives in a rural part of Guatemala. She was explaining to me how her husband finally got around to going out for drinks with some local guys, and when neighbors saw him out drinking, they felt compelled to give Emma a heads-up. The conversation went something like this:
Local: “Your husband is drinking beer.”
Emma: “Yes, I know”.
Local: “You’re going to get a beating tonight.”
Emma: “What are you talking about?!”
Local: “Your husband is drinking beer; you’re going to get a beating tonight.”
Emma: (Angrily shaking a raised fist) “I can beat [my husband] up if I want to, and he knows it!”
Local: (With a confused/concerned look) “Good luck with that”.
These women so closely associate the physical abuse at the hands of their husbands with drinking that they just assumed it is the same everywhere. This culture really amazes me; just the other day I stopped the Wife in the middle of the day, in front of the children and the maids, and gave her a hug and smiled at her. (That’s just the kind of guy I am.) The day before I brought roses home for her, (actually, I had them delivered, but whatever), and again the maids watched my every move-not smiling, just staring, as you might if I had hauled off and punched her.
All this leads me up to the #1 prohibited statement by expats in Guatemala, “There’s a reason this is the
third world.” You say that to a bilingual local or a expat and you’re inviting verbal & physical assault (being 6′1″, weighing 230lbs and not giving a $@#! helps deter these attacks, BTW). I even had one cheeky expat say, “Mate, I need to give you a book, ‘How to Win Friends and Influence People’.” Been there, done that, but you see, I have this love affair with truth. It gets in the way sometimes, but you sleep better at night (not to mention you maintain an accuracy rating of 99.3%, verified by the Ministerio de Asuntos de Internet de la Verdad y la Exactitud.
Without exception the stories I hear from local poor women contain elements of drinking binges, laziness, physical abuse and general worthlessness on the part of their husbands. From wealthier women I hear stories of restraints upon their movement, limits on who their friends may be and when they may see them and-like their poor counterparts-sexual promiscuity by their husbands. Granted, these are women talking, so as a chauvinistic, paternalistic,misogynistic-well, you know the rest-I discount it by about half (a husband should have some say in what his wife does and who she sees, right?), but I can’t help but recognize the remarkable consistency to the stories.
What’s the moral to the story? Well, as one expat bachelor friend who overheard my musings the other day said, “So, you’re saying I should marry a Guatemalan chick because she’ll be grateful?” I said, “Well, maybe. I guess if you feed her well and don’t beat her…wait, we’re not talking about a dog…”
Back to the original point. You all know I believe the fundamental problem with this culture is the lack of education. I know, I know, I’m in the minority here, most of you all seem to believe there are far too many people and far too few abortions and that’s the solution. However, it seems to me that from the data I’ve collected, neither poor nor wealthy men treat their female counterparts with respect. I know all about the machismo stuff, but I don’t think I understood how this is a facade for maltreatment of the fairer sex.
I don’t have space in this article to deal with you feminists who think men and women are the same and should be treated the same, so let’s accept the premise, if only temporarily, that I operate within a worldview which says that women and men are different and should be treated accordingly. For example, I speak to my male friends, brothers and fathers differently than I do my lady friends, wife, daughters and mother. I open doors and stand up at the table (at least at a nice place), for ladies, and guys, you SOBs can fend for yourself. One a$$hole I know said this was a ‘dubious double standard’, but I grew up thinking of it as gentlemanly.
I thought with the Catholic domination of this culture for the last half millenia that the philosophical attitudes I learned would apply here. For you pagans: Catholic men are supposed to treat their women like Christ treated his Mother. That’s why Catholics put the Madonna on a pedestal; because Christ-the perfect man-would have done the same. Apparently that part of the catechism didn’t make it onto the boat.
Anyway, that’s how I see it. If you’re planning on retiring here and occasionally venturing out of your gated community, or worse, if you’re planning on retiring here and then spending your remaining days ’saving the natives’ (from disease, poverty, unwanted babies or Hell), well, keep what I’ve said in mind. You’ve got your work cut out for you.
Nursing in Guate
Posted by: | CommentsNo, I’m not talking about the Registered Nurse kind of nursing. I’m talking about the much more delightful topic: old fashioned suckling, aka, breastfeeding. The reason I bring it up is if you spend any amount of time here you’re bound to get an eyeful of a little person getting a mouthful.
Before anyone hyperventilates, let me state that I am categorically pro-breast. I was suckled at my own mother’s breast and have lamented since then that I cannot remember a moment of it, and my wife has breastfeed each of our children. I think every mother should, if possible, and I find the breastfeeding police in the US (you know, the ones who think breastfeeding in public should be a felony), absurd.
Despite this comfort of mine with something that is perfectly natural and good, I must say that I was not prepared to see women nursing in public with their entire breast exposed. I’m not exaggerating folks, these moms whip that thing out like I might extend my hand to greet someone. The thing that makes all this even more odd is that most women here are very modest.
Anyone who knows anything about breastfeeding knows it’s kind of like Read More→
Guatemala Time
Posted by: | CommentsOne of my first ‘aha!’ experiences in Central America was seeing a sign at a hostel that read:
We operate on Guatemala time; please keep this in mind when making arrangements and voicing concerns.
What is Guatemala time? In essence it means there is no time. The natives have no concept of time. An appointment for 9am could happen at 9:15, 9:30, 10, tomorrow, or never. Even transplants seem to have been effected; after 3 months in country I have yet to have anyone arrive on time for an appointment, including Americans and Europeans, whether they have been here one month or 10 years.
It’s easy to excuse tourists and other newbies, because they can’t possibly know that you can’t depend on someone’s word as it regards the time. After all, if your shuttle driver says he will pick you up at 2pm and doesn’t show until 3:30pm, it’s hard to be on time to an appointment.
However, I’ve noticed that long-time residents are always late as well. Have they succumbed to the temptation to live a life free of time, or are they merely inconvenienced by the reckless disregard by natives of the turning of the earth? I can’t say.
These observations are easily made. The difficult question to answer, though, is ‘Why?’. I asked alot of expats and frequent visitors and received no substantial answer. The common refrain, as evidenced by my friend John’s comment was, “They just don’t f***ing care”. This might be true, but seemed inadequate, so I’ve endeavored to observe more closely and come to a conclusion.
I have concluded that locals have very little opportunity for upward mobility, and as a result do not think much of the value of their time. Of course, most people here are poor, by any standard, and so there time is not of much value anyway.
In the US and Europe (and increasingly, Asia), people value their time not just for the present value, but because of the future value of their time (through education and training and increased opportunities that lead to enhanced earning potential). Generations of opportunities have lead people in the developed world to see advancement as a natural process.
In the third world, this is far from the case. Generation after generation has experienced crushing poverty and little advancement. They respond by resisting the desire for improvement, seeking solace through contentment, simple pleasures and appreciating what little they have. The virtue of this approach is noteworthy, but as an ‘ethic’ passed from one generation to the other has the effect of placing virtually no value on utilizing one’s skills or improving oneself.
The result in daily life is that time has very little meaning. Why work harder when very little can be gained? Why arrive on time when it will likely mean no advancement or increased pay (or when others won’t arrive on time)? Why put in the extra effort to plan ahead or develop organizational skills when they are not appreciated by your culture or may be valued only in organizations which are beyond your reach?
So, John may be right, but the ‘why’ requires a little more understanding. How to cope? I still plan my day and set appointments, but I’ve greatly reduced my expectation of anything happening on time. By lowering expectations, I reduce the self-inflicted frustration that naturally follows. I keep reading material or an Ipod with me at all times, so I never waste my time, and I always have a back-up plan.
In an ironic way, a culture that resists being tied to the clock may require you to spend a little extra time planning your life to avoid inconvenience and frustration.


















