High Speed Internet in Antigua with No Contracts!
 

Archive for Food

This weekend Antigua hosted a disappointingly lame gastronomic festival. V had warned me not to have a big breakfast yesterday because we’d soon be gorging ourselves on interesting Guatemalan goodies, but I already had my suspicions that it would be more enticing to people with cameras than those with plastic spoons.

We stayed about half an hour from twelve thirty until one. It had kicked off at midday and already things were getting disheveled and the cooks representing the various aldeas were apparently having difficulty keeping some of the concoctions warm in their earthenware pots.

V’s expectations of discovering something unusual were not met. I can’t imagine there were many people there who’d never tried a pepián or revolcado.

Given the corporate sponsorship, the prices were a bit silly frankly. In the end we paid Q20 for a rather miserly portion of pollo con crema y loroco, most of which went back home for the dog. It was essentially a boney piece of chicken covered in… (continue reading)

Yesterday I posted a picture from la bodegona showing the prices of their fruits and vegetables and a few readers remarked how expensive it was.  Things are much cheaper at the mercado…sometimes.  We use a family in the mercado that offers delivery service in and around Guatemala, so we pay a premium, but they pick out the very best stuff for us and deliver to our home.  Local readers please comment and share the price you pay for items.

They will also shop for me, bringing anything they don't sell themselves, e.g., the ground pork you see listed above.

From the bodegona:

Sorry for the pic quality, they discourage picture-taking in la bodegona

Many Guatemalans assume that all foreigners here live a life of luxury a la Capitalinos who move around the country in helicopters.  Although there are a fair number of wealthy people here who haven’t worried about money in decades, my own appraisal of the situation is that a far greater number of expats live very ‘normally’, as in, semi-replicating a first world lifestyle with microwaves, satellite TV, internet, and a healthy diet while watching every centavo.

I am receiving an increasing amount of correspondence from 50 and 60 somethings in the US who are looking to Guate for retirement instead of Florida or Arizona.  Most of them are coming from the rust belt or the northeast and want to live comfortably on less money than it would cost in the US.  Not to mention the unbeatable weather.  There are a lot of demographics there that present opportunities for the entrepreneurial minded.  Language, health care, transportation, personal security, cultural education, personal assistance and a wide variety of other areas.

Anyway, ExpatMom is shopping frugally:

Irving and I headed into Antigua and we SCOURED the area. We took a notebook and we wrote down prices for everything from various places, which someday I may be organized enough to share if anyone is interested. We discovered that the cheapest place to buy bulk food in general is not behind the market in the dark shadowy bodegas, as previously thought, but on the other side of the street where the buses bound for Guate come out. There is a huge store there with two giant doors and a very long glass counter. You order at the counter, pay at the hidden booth (I guess you can’t rob someone you can’t see, though it’s just blacked out plexiglass and they walk out a few feet away without protection) and then go back to get your stuff.

The ‘caja’ operation is common here; you pick out your item, hand it to a clerk, who hands it to the cashier behind the black plexiglass, who then tells you what it costs, you slide the money under the window, and the unseen person behind the window slides your item, the receipt and change back.  Norteamericanos will find this awkward and confusing at first, but it’s common here.

If I were artistically inclined I’d want to write a poem or song about the unseen woman behind the glass; can she see me through the window?  Does she make faces at customers?  Is she so hideous that she would frighten customers and thus has been banished to the caja?  Or is she so stunning that el jefe has forced her to sit behind the glass lest male and female alike be distracted from the important task of spending?  Is she disfigured or crippled, and thus agreed to sit where no other senorita in tight pants and high heels would want to sit, unseen and unadmired, all day? Is she dressed at all?   Oh, how the questions paralyze my brain while I stare into the darkness of the flimsy plastic and hold my breath and rub my belly while waiting to see whether I will get ten 5Q bills instead of the single 50 I would prefer….

Anyway, with a few teenagers in the house and my own substantial caloric requirements, our food budget now exceeds 350Q a day, so we’ll have to check out the bulk operation (and of course the caja) and report back.

El Blogador makes a regular-almost daily-habit of reviewing movies.  One topic that recently caught my eye was the movie ‘Food Inc’, not because I’ve seen it, but because I worked on a business plan recently which touched on this topic.

I’m going to skip commentary on the apparently anti-market movie and El Blogador’s anti-American sentiment, since neither their opinions or my response is likely to be of surprise to readers, but the primary topic should be.  As I’ve learned in recent years, 98% of the food supply in the US is produced by only 2% of the population, and the bulk of the food is produced and distributed by a few large companies.  (If I were a liberal I would say, ‘a few evil multinational corporations’).

Naturally these companies respond to market pressures to produce large quantities of food at low prices.  Despite what the poor and uneducated may believe, these companies do not begin with the objective ‘produce low quality food’, but rather, interpret market demands and then seek to satisfy them.  In the US, and it would appear around the world, people want lots of good tasting food and don’t want to pay very much for it.  Imagine that.

Because the market works more efficiently in the US than in most other countries-and certainly most other large economies due to the relatively low level of governmental interference-the market is getting what it wants, and that means that the food is not very nutritious but it looks/tastes good and is cheap.  El Blogador blames this on subsidies, and while there are subsidies (that debate will have to wait), subsidies represent a tiny fraction of the US food production marketplace. I therefore conclude the structure of food prices has more to do with The Invisible Hand than the subsidies, which are really designed to keep domestic production viable when it might otherwise disappear due to foreign government subsidies of their exports.

What does this all mean?  Well, the Nutrition Nazis have long favored locally produced organically grown food, mostly for the wrong reasons.  They want us to eat mostly vegetables because consuming animal products is wrong, because locally produced food deprives evil multinational agribusiness of revenue, and because organic processes respect the rights of insects and diseases.

The truth, of course, requires a little more discernment and won’t be as satisfying to the partisans.  Locally produced food has the great advantage of being fresh and being close to the consumer.  Freshness usually translates into higher nutritional density, and a shorter supply line means disruption is less likely and also the cost of delivery is lower.  It almost always translates to higher prices, since the small farmer cannot reasonably compete with the large one in terms of price or efficiency.  It also means that diversity suffers, since local production is likely to be more specialized.  For the libs, this diversity-challenged farming approach really should be a deal-killer.

Organic would seem on the surface to make sense, but one challenge is the loss of efficiency that goes hand in hand with a reduction of fertilizers and pesticides that deter and or prevent plant death and disease.  The lower efficacy of organic approaches lead to reduced crop yield, which has two consequences:  lower supply and higher prices.  The left’s obsession with organic has reached levels similar to the demagoguery that surrounded DDT for most of my life, only to be proven to be largely politically motivated.

There are some good reasons to choose locally produced and organic food.  I enjoy knowing that much of the food we now consume here in Guatemala was produced within a short drive from where we live.  This means that there are few risks to the food supply and less is spent on distribution and marketing.  This, combined with a low cost of labor, is the reason local food is inexpensive.  These are market-relevant factors, not politically motivated ideologies that run against market forces.

I enjoy organic food here because I know the people producing the food are concerned with the nutritional value.  Those producers who are working to achieve size and beauty in their produce have an incentive to achieve these objectives without regard to the nutritional value.  They may be sufficiently motivated even to chemically manipulate their produce in a manner that is unhealthy.  Knowing that in the US there is some regulation of the food suggests that the manipulation is measured, whereas here I can have no such confidence.  So organic is a reasonable choice-perhaps a gamble-that the nutritional density is greater.  Add to this consideration that the organic grower’s concern for nutrition may translate into a more hygienic handling of the product and you have a formula which justifies the substantially higher price.

One final comment-US food prices have remained relatively low for a long time, despite record levels of crop failure and destruction (due to weather), increasing use of corn for alternative fuels (ethanol), and a booming, more affluent population in Asia, which translates into a much higher caloric intake.  Were global warming true, this would likely solve the world’s food problem (longer growing seasons and a larger global production area), but as some of us have long suspected it is a total fraud, and in fact the earth is likely entering another little ice age, which spells further trouble for the global food supply, and means higher food prices for you and I.

I guess I should’ve been using my mule network to bring these items down for Thanksgiving Dinner because we’ve been unable to find them in Guatemala.  If any of you long-time residents have a line on these things, fresh or canned, let me know!

Crackers, Triscuits

Crackes, Sociables or other flavored

Ground clovers

Ground nutmeg

Pickling Spice

Creamed Corn

Yellow Corn

French Fried Onions

Cornbread Box Mix

Canned Pumpkin

Brown Sugar or Molasses

Pecans

Sweet Potatoes

1 Box Cornstarch

Frozen Pumpkin Pie

Pie Crusts

Meat Thermometer

Years ago when I had the opportunity to work with a master PR guy on an acquisition, (he had just left a job as a top strategist for the RNC, but was then working in the private sector), he told me that all press was basically good, as long as “they spell your name right”.

Clearly not everyone would agree with this opinion, but I guess if you’re of the mindset that selling things is what matters, or getting votes is what matters (after all, there is no ‘intensity button’ on the voting machine) and you don’t really care what people think, well, I guess it works.

Perhaps that’s unwittingly what I’ve done here at GuateLiving.  I wouldn’t want to see the results of an intensity vote; I’m pretty sure the hatred level would set new records, but with every new ‘truth at all costs’ posts the blog grows in fame…or maybe it’s infamy.  You decide:

Yet over at Guate Living el termómetro en el trasero de la vida gringa en la Antigua — we have been shocked to find the suggestion that meticulous locals will take their ceviche with a prophylactic of antibiotics, and that manitas shucas (almost exlusively of the Guatemalan kind) are the root cause of the regular unscheduled trips to the crapper that appear to afflict the more delicate members of the ex-pat community.

Whilst the occasional intestinal storm is almost unavoidable for those of us bearing bacteria in our gut that — however friendly — have yet to master the local lingo, we have found that we rarely suffer from the runs when we prepare our own comida at home.

We recommend that concerned readers kit out each of the maids preparing their gringo grub with PVC gloves, face masks and hair nets, if not indeed a sealed head-to-toe anti-microbial body suit. (NB: The mask is to prevent them from spitting in your soup.

It’s not fun being sick.  I’ve probably spent more on medicine for myself in the last 6 months than I have the previous six years, and that’s adjusting for US prices. It’s not as easy as boiling your water for 5 minutes or washing and disinfecting everything you buy that might have been touched by Guatemalan hands, or even not eating raw food from street vendors (something only one member of my family does).

Expat Mom has been here for 7 years and knows the ropes, and she’s still struggling:

I’ve been feeling pretty yucky lately, though I did feel much better after the initial bout of being ill. Finally, yesterday, I broke down and had some tests done. Turns out that while there is no longer any sign of E. coli in specific, I have both an intestinal infection AND a UTI. Loverly.

So, I’m currently taking two different antibiotics and hopefully will be feeling better soon. I have to say, though, the 10 lb. weight loss over the past 2 weeks is almost worth being sick for!

I’ve come to the conclusion that unless you’re extremely obsessive about where you eat and how your food is prepared, you’re going to get sick.  What do some of you veterans think?

This is a Widget Section

This section is widgetized. If you would like to add content to this section, you may do so by using the Widgets panel from within your WordPress Admin Dashboard. This Widget Section is called "Feature Bottom Left"

This is a Widget Section

This section is widgetized. If you would like to add content to this section, you may do so by using the Widgets panel from within your WordPress Admin Dashboard. This Widget Section is called "Feature Bottom Middle"

This is a Widget Section

This section is widgetized. If you would like to add content to this section, you may do so by using the Widgets panel from within your WordPress Admin Dashboard. This Widget Section is called "Feature Bottom Right"