Archive for shoes
Yeah, I’m Good With That
Posted by: | CommentsThis city can be tough on shoes. I learned immediately that it was easier to walk around in my Johnston & Murhpy’s than in Nikes, because you just don’t get the support needed to walk on cobblestones. When I wear tennis shoes around town, I end up with what feel like shin splints in my feet.
Anyway, eight months of this was apparently too much for my shoes, because a hole had worn through at the ball of my foot and the sole was beginning to separate from the leather uppers. I looked in vain for someone convenient, preferring not to drive to Pastores (famous for making cowboy boots), to find a shoemaker. As it turns out, the husband of one of the teachers at Academia Colonial, where I occasionally study Spanish, is a shoe maker.
I left the shoes for her and wondered what the odds were that they would be returned with one of those weird, elongated, square-toed designs so popular here. One week turned into two and my blood pressure rose a bit. I stopped by the school one day and there they were…perfect. The entire sole had been replaced and was perfectly fitted to my size 12 shoe. When I walk in them, there isn’t even that weird squeaking sound that I experienced when I last had my shoes resoled in Phoenix (apparently Guatemalans are better at this than Mexicans).
Anyway, the bill was only 100Q, and I’m pretty sure it’s the best resole I’ve ever had done. Welcome to GuateLiving.
What’s the Gringo Price?
Posted by: | CommentsJimmy was shoe shopping for a friend recently and here’s how the transaction went:
I found said shoes in a store in the center of the market. When I found the right size I asked how much out of curiosity instead of just handing him Q30. If you know the right price and don’t want to fight about it, you should just pay the person rather than ask how much. I use this same tactic when I forget to verify the price of a Tuk Tuk before getting on board.50, he told me. I set the shoes down and walked out of his area. I then turned around and said, “Oh, I was told 30, but I guess I have to pay more because I’m white and you want to take advantage.” His response, “30 then.” He then put the shoes in a bag, I gave him the money and not another word was spoken.
Sometimes it really does work this way. However, for every time I’ve been able to employ this technique, there are at least three times where I’ve walked away, turned back and repeated my offer, and had them ignore me-even when offering the price I know locals pay.
Hard to Find, Part 1
Posted by: | CommentsOne of the things you’ll hear, if you’ve not read it already, is how you can get anything in Guatemala, as long as you’re willing to pay for it. In principle, I think that’s true, but there are some examples I can share that have proven very difficult to acquire at any price.
I’ve already mentioned my mission for bourbon, the status of which I can joyfully report as ‘improved’; a friend of mine who owns a bar can get Early Times, although apparently only occasionally. There are other items, however, more practical, that remain in the ‘pending’ or ‘FUBAR’ stage.
For example, I need a new pair of shoes. Before we left the states, we held numerous garage sales, gave away thousands of dollars worth of clothes to Goodwill and family/friends, filled a huge storage unit with stuff, and still found ourselves at the airport dumping bags of clothes into the trash. It’s an experience I’ve tried to forget, although the Wife regularly occasionally reminds me.
The point of that little nightmare is a) to encourage you to check carefully the baggage limits before leaving for the airport, rather than simply stuffing everything you can get into a suitcase by sitting on it, and b) to say that I ended up with two pairs of dress shoes and a pair of tennis shoes. I never thought of myself as in the league of Imelda Marcos, but I was embarrassed when I looked at my closet on moving day and realized I had nearly a dozen pairs of shoes, sandals and boots. Once you stop growing (vertically, anyway), and you spend most of your time at a desk, you don’t wear things out much and so collecting shoes for all manner of potential uses is easy. Okay, enough with the justification.
So I’ve been looking for a pair of comfortable, durable, casual walking shoes. Specifically, a pair I could wear around Antigua that would prevent the frequent ankle strains I suffer as a result of walking on the damn beautiful cobblestone streets. (The sidewalks were not built with 6′1″ 230lb gringos in mind, and locals are not quick to step aside, so I spend much of my walking time on the streets, and then icing my ankles later).
I passed on most of the shoes I was seeing because the quality was clearly well below that which you can find at any Kmart in the states, and at twice the price. My Dad taught me years ago that there are some things in life you shouldn’t pinch pennies on, and shoes is one of those items. In fact, the aforementioned dress shoes are Johnston & Murphy which have been resoled twice and are in fabulous condition still.
Anyway, I’ve looked at a bunch of places for shoes and most were junk. I found a pair I liked and asked for some in my size to try on. The young lady responded that the only size they had was the one in my hand (size 8 as opposed to my size 12). In fact, I discovered by visiting many stores that the largest size available locally is 11. It’s also not possible to buy something other than the normal width, so if you’re like a certain someone in my family who has short, stubby feet that resemble a hobbit’s feet, well, you’re out of luck.
I’ve got a lot of information to give you on children’s shoes, so look for that in part 2.
Be Careful What You Buy
Posted by: | CommentsI guess I was spoiled in Mexico, because WalMart was everywhere and so when you needed something, you

Holes in the bottom of the shoe-after 7 days.
go get it and it generally works as planned. Not much Expat Adaption required.
I’ve learned some frustrating and expensive lessons here in Guatemala. Let me give you some examples. I’ve now purchased six pairs of shoes here, and none have lasted a month. The average life span is actually about 10 days, but with duck tape and other creative fixes we’ve been able to prolong death.
The first pair of shoes were velcro, for a kid who hasn’t mastered tying yet, and one of the velcro pieces just ripped off the shoe on day 2. The replacement I managed to get from the vendor lasted 3 days. The next pair of shoes I bought lasted a week, and then the entire front of the sole detached from the upper of the shoe. The fourth pair of shoes I bought saw the stitching that holds the upper to the sole come undone, so that the kid can stick his toes through at will. The fifth pair I bought lasted about two weeks before small holes, about the size of a dime, started appearing in the soles.

Sole separated from the shoe after 10 days.
I was more careful buying the sixth and most recent pair. I shopped at several different stores, looked hard at the shoes, pulled on the soles and generally gave them a good test. I paid 200Q for these shoes, and a week later the kid announces to me, “Dad, my soles have holes in them”. I turned over the shoe and was shocked to see that there was a hole the size of a golf ball, and cracks in the rubber sole resembling a spider web.
I’ve since learned that there is a section of the mercado called ‘Pacas’ where you can get second hand stuff from the US. I stopped by on Thursday and it’s basically at Goodwill store, with tons of shoes and clothes, and in generally good condition (if you’ve ever given anything to Goodwill, you know the collection Nazis there can be pretty tough). That’s where I’ll buy the next six pair of shoes.
Update: Since first composing this message, I’ve had a few dozen additional experience with local merchandise that is completely worthless, so I’m starting a series and a category called ‘Be Careful What You Buy’.

Velcro strap broke after 8 days.

Toes showing through after two weeks.
Keeping the Sidewalks of La Antigua Clean
Posted by: | CommentsWalking the streets of Antigua can be dangerous; cobblestones that will twist your ankle, stout Guatemalan grandmothers who won’t budge an inch for a 6′1″ 230lb gringo, potholes you could fall into and be found two centuries later, and worst of all, dog poop everywhere. It’s hard to both look down and look ahead for Guatemalan grandmothers barreling towards you with a basket on their head, a kid on their back and one more on their hip. I love dogs, but I’m tired of walking through crap.
Fortunately, I’ve found a product that will solve this problem. From the manufacturer:
At Last, A Personal Debris-Removal System That Will Not Cause Injury If Used Properly
Why reach for a broom and dustpan when a clean floor is just a few steps away? For comfort, cleanliness, and sculpted calves, no other footwear-mounted cleaning product can beat the Kleen•Stride. Great for back pain sufferers, too!
No, the products aren’t real. But the empty boxes are. Wrap your otherwise forgettable gift in an Onion gift box, and watch their faces fall when they realize there is no such thing as a boot-attached personal debris-removal system—just a crappy bric-a-brac inside you waited until the last moment to buy.
Box dimensions: 12″x9″x4″
Sold individually or in multi-box sets. More designs available.
Now all I need to do is find some size 12 boots at Pacas and I’ll be set!

Which model should I order?


















