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Archive for Violence

Carlos Mendoza over at Black Box has posted about the homicide rate in Guatemala compared to some larger US cities.  It appears that my observations last year about the relative risk still hold true.

A few months back when I reported about the attorneys going around town telling people that the Wife and I had stolen our children, I was pretty upset.  It’s a small town and when you’re trying to do business and people are willing to touch on an issue that is as hot and sensitive as adoptions/stolen children, well, I was pretty hot about it.

Today brought me to the worst feelings I’ve had about this place in 15 months.  Let me give you some background; on a frequent basis the Wife or I take the kids out into the neighborhood or in the empty lot next door and they kick the soccer ball around, climb trees and basically do harmless, old-fashioned kid stuff.  One of us always accompanies them for their own safety and to make sure everyone is well-behaved.

Over the last few weeks, there have been some strange happenings.  One of the kids told me that he thought someone had thrown a rock at him.  I didn’t pay it much attention since he couldn’t actually point a finger, but the next day he had a huge bruise on his leg.  It’s hard to place blame when you’re a rough and tumble kid and you have a mysterious bruise.

Well, a few days later the Wife was sitting with the kids and got hit by another mysterious flying rock.  She looked around and wasn’t able to place where the rock had come from or who might have thrown it.

Today the Wife and kids were outside playing when the two year-old suddenly dropped to the ground and after those long seconds of silence which preface an outburst, began screaming wildly.  We wouldn’t have had any clue except that at the exact same instant the Wife was hit by a small piece of brick which presumably ricocheted off the baby or originated from the same place.

The impact left a gash and a huge knot, not bad enough for an emergency room trip but pretty severe.  I surveyed the scene with a neighbor and we quickly ruled out about 270 degrees of the field as an origin for the rock based on the wall that separates the neighborhood from the street, dense trees and our own house.  The severity of the impact on the baby’s head and the substantial bruising left by the previous projectiles pointed toward a device, unless Nolan Ryan is hiding behind a tree and throwing 90 mph rocks and broken bricks.

We found nothing, but my suspicion was immediately centered on a kid with a slingshot.  Regrettably, we didn’t find such a kid, in fact, we found nothing at all suspicious, there are only a handful of houses around that could shield an assailant and the lay of the land is such that there just aren’t that many angles that would work.  However, it was obvious to me that someone has noticed a pattern of the gringo kids playing outside in the afternoons and has decided to use them for target practice.

I shared the story with Santiago, concluding, “I can’t believe it”, to which he replied, “Dude, that’s the way it works here.  They hate you because you have money and white skin and they’ll attack the weakest, most defenseless member of your family with a slingshot and then slip back into the shadows.  Even if you caught them red handed their parents wouldn’t do anything; they probably know about it and approve.  You’re lucky they weren’t using marbles, which is their favorite weapon.”

So, I hung up the phone and counted to 10.  I don’t lose my temper easily, but neither do I take kindly to people attacking my family.  The kids on the soccer fields who responded to gringo goals by throwing rocks was bad, the licensiados lying about my family around town was pretty bad, but this stuff is deadly.  A small child hit with a brick could be fatal, and I know better than to imagine that anyone here would care if a gringo toddler was blinded, impaired or killed by a Guatemalan kid with a slingshot.

It’s not that kids around the world aren’t bad and don’t throw rocks or use BB guns, but realizing that someone has staked us out and is methodically taking shots at little kids…and who knows how many attempts there have been that have gone unnoticed?  It makes sense that if you’re armed with a slingshot or some other device that you’re going to miss more often than hit, so somebody has been working hard at this.

So, I’m kind of down on life beyond the gated community at the moment.  It’s sinking in that it doesn’t matter how safe I feel around town if the moment my baby steps outside the door he’s target practice for would-be snipers.  I know some of you readers will laugh at my concern over what is undoubtedly nothing compared to the violence some experience regularly, but when I think about how close we came today to losing a child, I get sick to my stomach and wonder what my hand in it would have been since I am the one who brought my children into this culture.

El Blogador hasn’t been blogging as often recently, perhaps because he’s spending time in Tapachula instead of London or Antigua:

But a couple of days ago I went to buy a medium-sized cup of iced coffee in the shop within this nicely rennovated bandstand in Tapachula, and was asked to pay 27 pesos for it ($2). It would have cost roughly the same in London, capital of soi disant ‘Rip-off Britain’. But this was Chiapas, which in many other respects still seems to offer the most sensible prices in Central America.

Still, I’ve kind of grown used to rip-off prices in Guatemala, even if I don’t quite understand them. A cup of capuccino or a pizza from Domino’s costs approximately 20% less than it would in London, but I can’t think of any overheads affecting the restauranteur which could mount up to anything like 80% of their UK equivalents.

The killer in London is the cost of renting a retail unit suitable for a coffee shop. Any building in the centre which doesn’t cut it as a locus for shopping can relatively easily be switched to alternative, more rentable uses such as office space or car parking. The owner of the building will generally go for the most profitable usage. Wages are also considerably higher in the UK, with the national minimum set at roughly $9 an hour.

So why is a lot of restaurant food (especially the faster sort) so expensive in Antigua? Can’t be the ingredients (mostly local), the property rent or the labour costs. Maybe red tape is a major overhead here, but then Guatemalan businesses aren’t paying anything like the same sort of corporation tax.

And bear in mind that the average middle class consumer is also earning a lot less (though arguably also paying less to the banks and the government), and so if the pizza seems pricey to me…

Maybe it’s because there’s scarcity, but on the demand side: the number of people able to pay X for a Domino’s pizza in Antigua is as small as the number of affluent tourists in Tapachula and so the price of X has to go up to cover reduced volume. Hmmm, maybe I am economically naive after all.

El Blogador is in Chiapas and is wondering why his iced coffee costs so much when other goods are relatively inexpensive.  Note that he is buying an iced coffee (and we can assume it’s good coffee), not tortillas and beans, and that he’s buying it from a nicely renovated shop.  This hints give us a preliminary understanding of why the coffee is relatively expensive, at least to other goods in Tapachula.

The drink he ordered is not a common one in Tapachula.  Locals don’t drink a lot of iced coffee.  They do eat a lot of tortillas and beans and don’t care how well renovated the eatery is.  They certainly wouldn’t willingly pay more just to eat at a nice eastablishment.  So in the cost ingredient of the coffee we have built in both an exotic product (if not because the coffee itself is exotic because of the relative scarcity of the availability in the aforementioned form), and also a nicer establishment from which to buy the product.  Both of these issues contribute to higher overhead, driving the price higher.  The exotic product requires a greater investment in bringing it to the market and there is a greater risk that it will go unsold.  When you are a bean merchant in Mexico or Guatemala, there’s not much risk of demand evaporating; in Tapachula they have many reasons to worry that foreigners might stop showing up, or at least in as great numbers (Swine Flu, regional violence, economic crisis, etc).

Next El Blogador considers Antigua prices and the overhead, surmising that although prices in Antigua are generally lower than London, the latter’s prices can be somewhat justified when considering overhead.  As we discussed before, overhead is a factor, and although Antigua commercial rents are quite high (you can rent a place in Phoenix at a lower price per square foot), this alone doesn’t justify the price.  (You’ll have to wait for my dissertation on Antigua real estate prices).

Just as in Tapachula the product offering was an exotic one, this also is the case in Antigua.  Whether it is Dominos or a cappuccino, the product is essentially an import.  Yes, I know they make coffee here but the coffee the locals drink and the coffee I get in my cappuccino is not the same, and I’ve seen coffee bags around town that have been imported from the US.  It wouldn’t surprise me to discover the coffee was grown here, shipped to the US, packaged and shipped back.  Even if it remains here and is manufactured and marketed for local consumption, the buyer of that coffee is not the common man, but a wealthy local, extranjero or tourist.  More goes into the packaging, marketing and sales of the product than the actual ingredients.  Don’t fall into the temptation of thinking this isn’t ‘fair’; most products are this way (and life isn’t fair, just ask my teenager).

This means that the market for the product is greatly reduced.  Normally a smaller market means lower prices, because small markets often have corresponding small demands (in the aggregate), but occasionally this is not true.  There is a small market for a Ferrari, but the price remains high because it is an exotic product and the small market has the ability to pay for it.  Ferrari wouldn’t make money selling at half the price, and probably wouldn’t want to sell a product half as valuable, and so at a greatly reduced price the Ferrari would not be available.  It is the same with pizza and lattes in Antigua.  The demand, in the aggregate, is small, but within the market it is quite high.  I suspect prices for coffee and Dominos pizza could go up by 30% and there would be very little change in volume, because the demand-though limited-is intense, and further, the demand is for good coffee.

This deserves an additional consideration.  How are prices determined?  El Blogador considers overhead, and market forces, but neglects to mention the primary motive for setting prices:  profit.  The merchant must cover all of his costs, he must cover the cost of his own time, he must put a value on the risk his capital is taking, and finally he must set prices to provide a profit.

If the price of the product does not cover all these things, then the business will fail.  You see this daily around town as businesses are closing up because at a given volume they could not adequately meet all those objectives.  Where there is not profit, there will not be a lasting, profitable business.  (In this country many will survive but will not be profitable).  In Venezuela we have recently seen why socialism always fails, why it must fail, because prices are subsidized to promote a political ideology instead of allowing to work, which brought about scarcity and eventually a currency devaluation.  That too will have to wait for another time.

Another factor is the government.  El Blogador and other promoters of substantial government involvement in society (also known as Marxists), point to the benefits of governmental involvement and would cite regulations that benefit the consumer, strong infrastructure, etc.  Naturally there are costs that come along with that, first and foremost a high tax rate, secondly the drain on economic growth that comes with government taxation and regulation, and finally the infringement of personal and economic freedoms.  Most importantly when the government consumes money it returns to the economy less than it takes in, whereas private businesses return more through the creation of value, through innovation, etc.

In Guatemala the government is so dysfunctional you have both the presence of taxes and regulation, though they are widely subverted, and you have the lack of the societal benefits or infrastructure that is normally the product of government’s involvement.  For all my complaints about governements in general, the streets in the US are generally well constructed, well maintained, and traffic lights work, etc.  But here in Guate the streets are a mess, there is inadequate parking, buildings are crumbling, and genrally infrastructure is insufficient.  In addition you have the violence, a poorly trained work force, and high rates of crime.

The whole point of this is that there are substantially greater risks to the entrepreneur and his capital here than elsewhere.  If you invest in London or NYC, you do so without a great deal of fear about certain risks to your capital, whereas here you must protect your capital like a pioneer might who was headed west in 19th century America. Those risks keep a lot of businesses out of the market, which reduces the supply of products and services.  This forces prices higher.  (It also means the opportunity for those of us who are here is greater).

As with all prices, the market determines them.  In this case El Blogador’s willingness to ‘overpay’ for that iced coffee is itself a testament to why the price is so high, just as I am willing to pay 16Q for a cappucino at the park or 100Q for a Cohiba or 150Q for a good pizza (not Dominos).  There is a concentration of people like El Blogador and Don Marco in this town, which is why the prices are so high (for everything from real estate to cheese).

So in conclusion, prices in Antigua tend to be high, relative to the economy and the region.  They are high because the goods in question are unique/exclusive, because there are relatively few of them and because the risks to the merchant and his capital are great, and because the demand, while small, is intense.  The next time you find yourself wondering at prices in Antigua (or Atitlan), apply this approach and you’ll find the answer.

Life here is one non-stop drama.  The stories people tell, the adventures you experience yourself, and the adventures friends relate to you.   It used to be hard to believe, but I have to admit that I’ve sufficiently adjusted my expectations of things that I can almost predict how a story will end.

This story that Expat Mom blogged about is a great example:

Basically, there was a robbery by the Guate buses. A man was shot. He lived for 4 days, but Luis (my maid’s husband) was said to be the shooter. According to the victim’s (who appears to also have been the one committing the robbery) brother, the victim had said that the shooter came from San Cristobal. Now these guys are actually related somehow, so it didn’t make sense that he didn’t actually name Luis if it was him, but that’s beside the point. The victim’s family was apparently quite upset and when he died, Luis was summoned to the police station to be interrogated. Terrified, my maid called her brother who called a friend who is a lawyer and the three of them accompanied Luis to the police station where the interrogation consisted of the other family screaming at Luis and demanding that he be put in prison immediately. The investigator was in agreement.

Fortunately, the lawyer stepped in at this point and reminded them that they had absolutely nothing to go on apart from the brother claiming that it was Luis, though he hadn’t even been in the area at the time of the shooting. Luis had witnesses (his partner in the market, as well as other guards) that he had been IN the market at the time of crime.

Finally, Luis was allowed to go, after the brother had sworn (in front of the investigating officer) to kill him . . . a slow and painful death. Shortly afterwards, the lawyer examined the paper that they had been given as a summons and told them that it was totally illegal . . . handwritten with no signature. In fact, they shouldn’t have gone to the police station at all! We began to suspect that this was all done for money, if the lawyer hadn’t been there, it’s possible they would have offered Luis a “deal” to keep him out of prison.

They were summoned, legally, this time, to appear before a judge last Friday. My maid asked my advice, saying that they didn’t want to pay for the lawyer and saying that she was terrified her husband was going to be killed. I suggested she get a restraining order against the guy who placed the death threat so it would at least be on record should anything happen and advised her to get the lawyer, since these guys were obviously playing dirty. Luis arranged to pay the lawyer in monthly payments and on Friday, they headed to court.

As they waited for the judge, the victim’s family attempted to convince Luis that only he could go in, no lawyers or family allowed. When the judge showed, he of course let everyone in.

So they all went in and the family started hurling accusations and demanding that Luis be incarcelated. The judge made them shut up and asked for proof. Their proof? “We saw someone in a Municipal uniform.” There were about 50 guys in that uniform that night so the judge said that wasn’t proof. They had NOTHING else.

Then Luis’ lawyer presented the evidence that they had that the entire thing had been done illegally, with them making Luis come to the police station and the judge turned on the victim’s family and the investigator and told them that this was completely illegal and that the investigator was going to lose his job for it! They also presented the death threats that the brother had made against them and the restraining order they got against him and the judge gave them another restraining order and put it on record that if anything at all happens to Luis or his family, this family is considered responsible before anyone else.

According to the maid, the victim’s mother burst into tears and said that in her pain, they had to do something and they HAD to lock Luis up because she couldn’t live unless someone paid for her son’s death. The judge looked at her and said, “What are you saying? That it doesn’t matter WHO pays?” She got quiet and he asked, “Are you saying that this man DID NOT kill your son?”

And she confessed to having made the whole thing up!! They knew who had done it and he’d left town, so she wanted someone to pay, or so she said. The judge threatened to have the victim’s mother and brother put in prison right then and there, but Luis didn’t press charges. However, there is now paperwork against the family saying that if anything at all happens to Luis of a suspicious nature, they are on the hook.

A friend of mine who used to work officially for Uncle Sam and who now doesn’t work officially for Uncle Sam contacted me recently and wanted to review some security procedures with me, in light of the threats I’m getting and the enemies I’ve made around town by speaking rather freely about how the Antigua LaCosaNostra works.  I was reminded of this by a post from Trudy with rare candor about security here:

One of the bad things of living here is that, although one is less at risk, there is always the fear of being kidnapped or robbed. Hence, one is careful not to display anything that can be construed as wealth, not to use the same ATM all the time, not to take the same route every day, etc. These are simple common-sense behaviors, but many forget to keep to them. I haven’t been robbed, but still. Doesn’t hurt to be cautious.

There are several levels of security that expats/gringos/conquistadors need to employ here.  The most basic is what Trudy has described, which I would characterize as ‘passive personal security’.  I would add to that the following:

  • Don’t wear shorts; it marks you as clueless and not only will the prices be higher for everything but you’ve put a target on your back.
  • Don’t wear flip flops (see above), plus you’re more likely to hurt your feet in this town.
  • Don’t stand at the street corner holding a huge, unfolded map in front of you wondering aloud in English “Where can I change all my dollars to local currency”.
  • Don’t yell down the street to your gringo friend in English/German.
  • Don’t ask a random passerby on the street, “Donde esta el banco?” because you’ve just advertised that you either have or will have money.  Ask a gringo or, better yet, ask someone where the park is, which will take you to where the banks are.

The next level I would refer to as ‘basic personal security’.  This would involve:

  • Looking out a door or window before opening the door to your home or business.  The easiest assault will happen when you open your door and they rush in and rape you, kill you for your organs, eat your food and then steal your valuables.
  • Don’t ever let someone in your home unless you know them already and know there is no one else with them.
  • When sitting in a restaurant or public place, sit with your back to the wall and facing the primary entrance.  Tell the staff you love to look out the window at all the beautiful local people.
  • Check out the layout of the restaurant you’re visiting, preferably for another exit but if nothing else, a kitchen, pantry or bathroom you could secure yourself in until the assailant gets frustrated and leaves.  Also gives you a moment to work things out with your maker if you’re meeting him sooner than expected.
  • Randomly crossing the street rather than remaining on the same side of the street for the entire block.  If someone is trailing you to pickpocket you or scalp you, this will make it more difficult and more obvious.
  • Stopping occasionally to look in a window or to tie your shoe so you glance behind you.  Most would-be attackers here aren’t very sophisticated and they’ll likely appear surprised and stop in their tracks.
  • Pausing before reaching into a pocket or your purse to look around to see who is watching you.
  • Conspicuously look people in the eye; this makes most people uncomfortable and if someone was considering you as a target, they may be just unnerved enough to ‘pass’.
  • Not opening car doors while people are walking by-you’re sitting and immobile, they’re standing and mobile, i.e., you’re going to lose.
  • Not unlocking car doors until you’ve surveyed your surroundings; if someone loiters, move on.  If you’re in love with the parking place, pull out your cell phone and start talking to yourself and pointing at the lurker.  He’ll get nervous and move on.
  • Not stopping when you are approached by people begging or wanting to sell things; keep walking and if they’re serious they’ll follow, if they’re malicious you’ve just made it more difficult.
  • If accompanied by children or the elderly, positioning the strongest and most aware people at the front of and back of the group.

Some of you will scoff at these things but if you’ve ever had a wallet or purse stolen, your passport stolen (and then offered for sale to you for $2,500), or a loved one kidnapped, you won’t be laughing.  My own attitude is that the odds are rather small of attack, but like being struck by lightening, it is a catastrophic event if it does occur.  I prefer to improve the odds in my favor and it’s easy to do that.

You can easily improve your personal safety dramatically by getting a German shepherd and taking him with you whenever you leave the confines of your gated community.  Make sure you don’t feed him before you leave the house, so he’ll be extra hungry, and that you have a quick-release collar so if you need him, you can free him up with a click of your thumb.  Bad guys fear a hungry dog more than they do your Glock 23 with 13 rounds (not that a gringo would ever carry such a thing).

Of course there’s a whole other level of personal security that requires a little more discipline but not much additional effort, but you only need to employ those tactics when you’ve been reminded that you can have someone whacked here for 200Q plus the costs of some boombas (to cover up the noise).  Think about that the next time you hit the ATM for 2,000Q.

P.S.  If I don’t post on GuateLiving for three consecutive days, someone stop by RumBar and let them know, please…JP will know what to do.

Trudy blogs at Innkeeper’s Tail and occasionally comments here.  In a recent post she wrote:

I have recently read some blog postings by other US expats, and am mystified… as are some of my US and European expat peers who also read them … by the levels of paranoia that some of these wound-up expats seem to exhibit. There is a definite tone of “Guatemalans hate us! They are out to get us!” which is amusing and difficult to understand. My experience and that of many other expats whom I know has been so different.

I am not saying their experiences don’t merit fear–they may have some valid reasons–but it also seems that fear often predisposes people to certain behaviors which may only serve to exacerbate, rather than alleviate, their fear. Really, it’s not as if we don’t encounter crime and pathology in the US.

I think it’s fair to say she’s referring to GuateLiving, since she recently commented here expressing a similar sentiment, and since I know of no other Guate blogger who says publicly anything like what I’m writing (if I’m missing a blog, please let me know!).

When you’re an apologist for a person or a subject, it makes sense that you might remain blissfully unaware of the ‘flip side’ of the subject.  This is my complaint about most of what is written about Guatemala; those writing about it have a financial incentive to paint a picture of paradise.  (Even the starving children are presented romantically, i.e., a way for liberals and evangelical missionaries to come here for a week, feed a few kids, and return home proud of the sacrifice they’ve made and the good deed they’ve done).  Conversely, no one has an incentive to write the truth about life here.  In fact, there is a disincentive, as readers of this blog know.

First, you will be Read More→

I’m closing the poll from now.  For some reason the ‘archive’ function on the poll is not working, so I’ll post the screenshot here.

Be sure to check out the new poll in the column to the right, and just below the ads links to my friends.

If you have a suggestion for a poll, post it here or email me.

GuateLiving readers, on average, are smart folks...

GuateLiving readers, on average, are smart folks...

Carlos over at BlackBox (one of my favorite Guate blogs, with a focus on economics), has done a great job evaluating the homicide rate in Guatemala.  We’ve all heard how dangerous this country is, but as always, reading beyond the headlines is informative.  In 2008, the country had a homicide rate of 46 per 100,000 residents.  To put it in perspective, the US murder rate is 5.6 per 100,000, and Iraq is over 100.

Interestingly, 48 of the country’s 332 municipalities experienced no homicides at all.  The people living in these areas number roughly 800,000.   An additional 27 cities have a murder rate lower than the US.  Fully 8 million people live in 231 municipalities where the murder rate is lower than the national average (although still high at 18 per 100,000).

You know where this is going…there are a relatively small number of municipalities where most of the murders occur.  Carlos points out there are 20 municipalities where the murder rate is higher than that which existed in Iraq at the height of violence there.  These 20 municipalities are home to nearly 2 million residents.

One town in the Zacapa department, Estanzuela, actually has a homicide rate of 239 per 100,000 people.  The capital comes in at 120 murders per 100,000.

So what about Antigua?  Well, the state of Sacatepequez is a little safer than the rest of the country, with a murder rate of 39 per 100,000.  This means that living in Sacatepquez, Guatemala, is safer than living in Detroit, Baltimore or St. Louis. The chart below shows Antigua as having 25 homicides over the course of the year, 20 by gun, 4 by knife and 1 by a blunt weapon.

homicidesWhat I think would be of interest to all readers is what the murder rate is for non-Guatemalan residents, i.e., expats and tourists.  I was only able to find only one report for 2008, and most readers probably remember the report of the American Priest killed in May of this year.  The US Embassy reports 3 deaths of Americans so far in 2009, including one which was classified as domestic violence.  That’s hardly scientific but I assume any expat or tourist death would be widely reported, so it seems reasonable to conclude that these one per year numbers are pretty close to the truth.

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