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In the first two installments (1) & (2), I shared some experiences I’ve had with local ATMs that can make your life difficult. In this installment I’m going to share with you how your US-based bank can make your stay miserable.
When I left the US, I contacted my bank and let them know I would be traveling in Central America indefinitely. (Don’t screw up and tell them you’re moving permanently, then they’ll flag your account and make life VERY difficult down the road-more on that in a future installment).
The bank noted my call and said no problem. Hehe. Little did I know.
I spent months in Mexico and had no problems. It only took a few weeks for me to have problems in Guatemala. The Wife had gone to la bodegona and filled up nearly two grocery carts with food. The bill came to over 2000Q, the check-out process was extraordinary (requiring the help of 3 little boys who hang around at the cash registers, offering assistance), only to find that my credit card didn’t work.
I had managed to avoid this trip, hating shopping more than a visit to the dentist, and so I got her call, tired, frustrated and undoubtedly irritated (with me). After all, she’s standing there with two full carts, one of our kids, and several local boys, all observing the unfolding drama and her attempts to communicate in two decade-old high school Spanglish.
While on the phone, I logged on to my account and verified there was plenty of money in the account. What could be the problem?
She had the guy in charge of credit cards (you don’t pay right at the register, you have to go to a special counter to pay by credit card), and asked him to run it again. He did, and shook his head at her. Fortunately, she had another card issued by a different bank, and handed it to him.
Incredibly, he looked at the card and asked her for ID. I hadn’t considered that they would check ID-they never had mine-but I guess because she had a huge bill and had been declined twice, he was worried. Well, since her name wasn’t on this card (it was a corporate card of mine), he wouldn’t run it.
Doing my best to avoid leaving $250 worth of groceries at the checkout lane, I told the Wife to walk all the way to the other end of the store to the ATM, and see if she could withdraw cash using the 2nd card. The guy agreed-reluctantly-and she was able to withdraw 2000Q. (Would you want to put back two grocery carts worth of gringo food?). This, plus the cash she had on her, paid the bill.
The poor Wife arrived home 30 minutes later, embarrassed, tired, and without enough cash to pay the kind taxi driver who had waited for her throughout the experience. He didn’t have change for 100Q (!), so I raided the kids’ piggy banks and put together the 50Q he wanted for helping to load groceries and drive her home. Shortly thereafter (about 30 minutes, to be precise), I had navigated all the menus on my bank’s phone support system and reached a live person.
The very sweet Indian lady on the phone confirmed that my card had been blocked due to suspicious usage. The suspicion, in fact, was that it was being used in Guatemala. Yes, it had been used with regularity in Guatemala AND Mexico for months before that, without problem, and YES, I had called to warn them, but for some reason it was blocked. After verifying who I was by giving every private and personal fact of my life, she released the hold and apologized, in that unique English that only Indians, educated by the British, can speak.
Less than a week later the card was declined again. I won’t trudge through the embarrassing details of the circumstances this time, let me just say I didn’t have the cash on hand to pay. A phone call to the bank later in the day revealed that they had blocked my card again, this time for pulling out too much cash in too short a period of time. Apparently if you use a card as a credit card, it’s one thing, but hitting the ATM daily and pulling out the max can trigger a red flag of sorts. (No doubt somebody in a government agency got a piece of paper with my name on it as well, and with raised eyebrows said, “Oh yeah, that guy…”).
Why bother contacting your client and inquiring about the usage, when you can just shut off the card? Well, the kind Pakistani man couldn’t answer that, but he did release the block and suggested I “limit” my use of the ATM, but should feel free to use it as a credit card without further problems. He didn’t say it, but of course the reason is the US government believes anyone who deposits money in one country and withdraws it in another is engaged in money laundering.
Remember how I mentioned that few places accept credit cards, and those who do, don’t always, and consider what I had just been told. Now I couldn’t use the ATM freely, but have few places where plastic is accepted. It was becoming clear I needed another solution. You’ll have to wait for installment 4 to hear about that.
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Readers may recall that two weeks ago the Wife went on a short vacation. I’m happy to report that she had a great time. Art & Rosa are wonderful hosts, so she ate well and got two nights of uninterrupted sleep. Things were a little different on the home front. As I mentioned in a previous post, I had planned ahead and was well-provisioned.
However, after 36 hours of hot dogs (32Q for 40 hot dogs), a change was needed and since everyone loves pizza, I decided to make some. I thought it would be a good time to add to my other recipes, which consist of spaghetti, peanut butter (48Q for large jar of JIF) and jelly (18Q for locally-made Antigua brand,500g) sandwiches (13Q for 1 loaf of Wonderbread-style sliced white bread) and soup from a can. Pizza can’t be that hard, right? I thought I would share the recipe with you:
Mark’s Special Pizza
- Pour water in a cup and warm it up in the microwave.
- Add some sugar and yeast, stir with that wire thing.
- Drink a beer (7Q ea).
- By this time, the solution is ready for olive oil (2L=86Q); pour some in.
- Dump a bunch of flour in a bowl (5lb=28Q), and add some salt.
- Dump the solution into the bowl and stir.
- Find a kid to stir when it becomes difficult.
- Dump a bunch of flour on a plate and transfer the sticky stuff from the bowl to the plate. Get the kid who excels at playing in the mud to play with the sticky stuff and flour combination.
- Once the sticky stuff isn’t sticky any more, throw it in a bowl with olive oil. Cover/don’t cover, I don’t think it makes a difference at this altitude.
- Drink three beers.
- Remove the stuff from the bowl, divide in two, and spread onto a pizza pan. Don’t forget to put olive oil on the pan, this makes it easier for the kid to spread it out evenly. Otherwise it will look like a football when it comes out.
- Turn the oven on. It doesn’t matter what temperature, here in Guate the ovens all run at the same temperature, regardless of setting.
- Drink two beers.
- Take the bowl of spaghetti sauce leftover from last week (recipe for Mark’s Special Spaghetti is here), and add in tomato paste and oregano. Spread liberally on the almost-pizza.
- Get an obsessive kid with too much energy to grate the pseudo-cheddar cheese (1lb=55Q), then combine with a bunch of mozzarella; it should be more white than orange. Sprinkle on the pizza.
- Top with liberal doses of quasi-pepperoni from the bodegona (1lb=28Q), then put in the oven. Adjust the temperature if it makes you feel better.
- Drink two beers.
- Check on pizza.
- Drink one beer.
- Take pizza out.
- Take picture.

Not everyone likes pepperoni.
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Mark
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The Wife is on a well-deserved vacation. It’s actually a belated Mother’s Day gift. I wanted to send her to

Remember the scene with the washer?
Atitlan for a few days, but she didn’t want to go alone. So, she’s hanging out at Art and Rosa’s Bed & Breakfast in Ciudad Vieja.
Art is from the US and Rosa is a Guatemalan and they have a fabulous home they built specifically for use as a B&B. It’s the closest thing to US building standards I’ve seen since I left the US a year ago, it’s quiet and just a few minutes from Antigua, so if you need a place away from the busy streets of Antigua, it’s perfect.
Obviously the Wife will be just fine, but the kids and I are another matter altogether. Even the Maid seemed a little worried as the kids and I waived goodbye to the Wife today. Maybe I said ‘dos meses’ instead of ‘dos dias’ when I was explaining the duration of her trip; I can’t really recall. If she doesn’t show tomorrow, at least I’ll know why.
I bought a huge bag of hot dogs today and I have a case of beer in the fridge (Refrigerators here are so small; I had to throw out a bunch of fruits & vegetables to make room for the beer), so the kids and I should survive for at least 24 hours together. I’ve also got one roll of duct tape and about 30 meters of line normally used for drying clothes in case things get really bad.
Anyway, if there are any ladies out there who are feeling particularly motherly and would like to adopt a single dad for a few days, drop me an email.
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Mark
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The Maid arrived today and breathlessly informed the Wife that a little girl in Guatemala City had died from Swine Flu. As my electricity was out and I had yet to get into town to connect, I was slighty alarmed. Not that I knew it wouldn’t happen eventually, but that it was actually being reported and I was out of the loop. After all, how can one panic if he is ignorant?
Well, it turns out the little girl has been confirmed as infected, but is in fact not dead, and is allegedly doing just fine. That jives with my own expectations a little better; I’m sure dozens of Guatemalans (and/or Mexicans in country) have already contracted and died of the illness formerly known as Swine Flu, and their deaths have either gone unnoticed or unreported, or they died of complications of the illness and it was attributed to something else.
Don’t write me and say I’m an ignorant, paternalistic imperialist who doesn’t understand these people, it’s simply my informed opinion of how things really work here. (Kind of like the crime statistics here; do you really think most crimes are actually reported? I recently posed that question to two young female backpackers from DC recently in response to their assertion that the need for dressing modestly in Central America was, “Like, umm, you know, like, sooo much, you know, an exaggeration.” Anyway, the shuttle got real quiet after that exchange. )
Anyway, the Maid apparently got some instruction from someone, because I thought her advice to the Wife was pretty sound:
- Wash your hands every hour.
- Don’t go visit people.
- Don’t go out unless you have to.
- If you get sick, go to the Doctor.
Of course, you can always do what I did, leave the safety and health of your own home so you can seek out an internet connection and sit in a small room next to a young woman who is hacking up a lung.
I wonder if I’m taking enough vitamin C…